The coho “silver” salmon season in Puget Sound and some western Washington rivers has remained fairly good, and should continue on this pathway for weeks to come.
In this week’s Seafood Recipe of the Week, Anthony’s Restaurants Chef Pat Donahue offers a delightful Chargrilled and Citrus Glazed Silver Salmon with Chanterelle Risotto and Corn Succotash.
This season we have weekly recipes and advice through October on how to cook up and dish out a wide variety of local seafood by experts like Chef Maria Hines, owner of Tilth, Golden Beetle and Agrodolce restaurants; Chef Pat Donahue with Anthony’s Restaurant; Chef Taichi Kitamura, owner of Sushi Kappo Tamura on Eastlake in Seattle; executive chefs Sarah Scott, Ken Sharp, Matt Brandsey, Jonathan Garcia, and Wes Hood along with other chefs from El Gaucho, Aqua by El Gaucho and The Inn at El Gaucho; outdoor cookbook author Tiffany Haugen; head chef Chris Gabel at Tini Bigs and Hula Hula in downtown Seattle; tackle shop owners; local seafood-market owners; and fishing guides and charter services.
Recipes are posted every Wednesday through Oct. 28 so if you have a recipe you’d like to reel-in my way, please let me know and I will post them and will even test it out with my family and friends at the dinner table.
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Here is advice from Anthony’s Chef Donahue on how to prepare silver salmon:
Silver salmon (otherwise known as Coho salmon) are harvested commercially in the Pacific Ocean from Alaska to Oregon. They are also a very popular sport fish in the Puget Sound.
Silvers have dark metallic blue or greenish backs with silver sides and a light belly. It is known for its red/orange meat and its richness of flavor. Its fat content is slightly lower than that of King or Sockeye salmon.
When purchasing silver salmon, you’ll want to look for them in late summer to early fall. You’ll want to seek out ones with shiny scales and bright eyes. If you press the flesh of the fish with your finger, it should bounce right back. The aroma of the fish should never be “fishy”- it should resemble clean, salty water.
When cooking silvers, they are medium in texture so they hold up well to poaching, sautéing or plank grilling. Silvers are lower in fat content and can benefit from a gentle cooking method, such as poaching, which keeps it moist. Since this fish does have a lower fat content than others, be mindful that it does not dry out during the cooking process.
Chef Pat loves to embrace the fall season by accompanying the wild silver with chanterelle risotto and a corn succotash.
Chargrilled and Citrus Glazed Silver Salmon with Chanterelle Risotto and Corn Succotash
1 ½ – 2 pound silver salmon filet, skin and bones removed
2 tbsp. Canolive Oil
2 oz. Citrus Butter (recipe below)
½ – ¾ pound roasted chanterelles (see recipe below)
1 cup corn succotash (see recipe below)
1 tbsp. diced red bell peppers
1-2 tsp. chopped chives
4 cups risotto (see recipe below)
To taste Kosher salt
To taste black pepper
Heat grill to medium high. Clean and oil grill well. Coat salmon with oil and season with kosher salt and pepper. Place salmon on grill (presentation side down) until about 60 percent done or until you can see the fat coming out of the side of the filet.
Flip salmon and continue cooking until the internal temperature reaches 135 degrees. Remove from heat and top with citrus butter. Let sit covered until the internal temperature reaches 145 degrees.
To serve, divide risotto into serving bowls and sprinkle Chanterelles around the perimeter. Place cooked salmon on top of risotto and drizzle with excess citrus butter. Top with succotash, chives and diced peppers.
1 tbsp. Canolive oil
¼ cup diced yellow onions
1 cup corn (cut from cobb or frozen)
1 tbsp. chopped Peppadew peppers
¼ cup lima beans (frozen and thawed)
1 tsp. chopped parsley
½ tsp. Kosher salt and pepper
1-2 tbsp. chopped roasted red peppers
Chop roasted red peppers to 1/4 – 1/8 inch in size. Place in bowl and set aside.
In a medium pan, heat oil over medium heat. Sauté onions until soft (1 minute). Add corn and mix together.
Add parsley, kosher salt, pepper, roasted red peppers and lima beans and cook additional 2 minutes. Can be prepared up to one day ahead and refrigerated. Heat through when ready to serve.
2 tbsp. chicken base (bouillon cube or paste)
5 cups water
2 oz. salted butter
1 ½ tbsp. Canolive oil
3 oz. diced yellow onions
2 cups Arborio rice (uncooked)
½ – ¾ pound chanterelle mushrooms
¼ cup cooking wine (dry white wine, such as Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc)
2 tbsp. lemon juice
4 tsp. lemon zest
1 cup heavy cream
1 cup water
½ tsp. chicken base (bouillon cube or paste)
Heat oven to 375 degrees. Clean mushrooms with towel or brush. Trim the woody part of mushroom stem off, lightly coat with oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast in the oven until golden. Can be done 1-2 hours ahead of time and held at room temperature.
Heat chicken base and water in separate pan. Keep warm over low heat. In separate pan over medium heat, add butter and add olive oil. Once butter has melted, add onions and cook until translucent (1-2 minutes). Add wine and reduce until the liquid is half its original volume. Stir in rice. Add 1 cup of chicken base and water mixture and simmer until liquid is completely absorbed. Repeat with one cup each of chicken liquid until each cup is completely absorbed and all the broth is used. Rice should be a creamy consistency. Stir in lemon juice and lemon zest. This can be prepared up to 1 day ahead or just prior to serving.
¼ pound butter
1 tbsp. orange juice concentrate
1 ½ tsp. lime zest
¾ tsp. lemon zest
½ tsp. minced shallots
Cut butter into 1-inch cubes and combine with all other ingredients. Process in food processor or blender until smooth. Refrigerate until ready for use. Can be made up to three days ahead or earlier if stored in freezer.