An autumn weekend trip to Port Gamble combines some of the best of the Northwest — a ferry ride, changing color and leaf-strewn paths and excellent dining. The New-England-like region gives first inklings of that hygge feeling — the Danish word for quiet winter comfort. Port Gamble is a National Historic Landmark on the Hood Canal’s Kitsap Peninsula.
Take a Washington State Ferry from Edmonds to Kingston. Some 30-minute sailings have a marine naturalist in a blue jacket, trained to provide information about orcas and other sea denizens.
About two and a half miles along WA-104, detour to Heronswood Garden, which only reopens October 28 for weekends. Owned by the S’Klallam Tribe, the 15-acre Heronswood Garden showcases 8,000 plant varieties across six garden habitats. Several gardens feature plants and trees of cultural, culinary and everyday use by the S’Klallam people. The Traveler’s Garden contains exotic plants from around the world, adapted to the Northwest climate.
Then, rejoin WA-104 to drive along a winding two-lane country road through vibrant bigleaf maples and other deciduous trees. In only 10 minutes, you’ll reach the first signs of Port Gamble. Just south of town, the city of Port Gamble owns a 4,300-acre tree farm (Port Gamble Forest Heritage Park) with miles of hiking, biking and water trails amid wildlife and evergreens.
Port Gamble: What to do and see, where to dine
Then, drive a mile north to the distinctive green structures at Port Gamble’s entrance. The 1853 town was built in the same Maine style as the company town’s sawmill founders and workers had grown up with — steepled churches, clapboard homes with bright white trim and picket fences.
Indeed, Port Gamble boasts multiple superlatives. The oldest continuously operating sawmill in North America operated here until 1995, when the machinery finally fell silent. The town’s Masonic Lodge is still the oldest active lodge in Washington, busy since 1859.
Today, you can revisit the past by parking and walking through the roughly five-street town. Most businesses are clustered along Rainier Avenue. Each establishment offers a placard that describes the building’s original purpose and inhabitants — whether a former fire station or physician’s home. The boutique options heighten the town’s cozy feel. Pick up fabric at quilting shops or yarn at artisan fiber stores with rentable weaving looms.
The Port Gamble General Store and Cafe focuses on gifts, apparel and other appealing items. The cafe in back offers quick-service meals and treats. On the store’s second floor, find the Sea & Shore Museum, which claims to be the world’s second-largest private seashell collection. (The largest — in Thailand — was started by the same person.)
The impressive exhibit features shells the size of small dogs, adult hand-sized sand dollars, giant horseshoe crab domiciles, column-like shells, leather corals, square sea stars and other curiosities among thousands.
Behind the store is the town’s museum entrance, unfortunately closed for the season. But interesting pieces, such as an enormous grindstone, can be found outside year-round.
Find the Rainier Avenue end pier with benches to look out on Hood Canal. Other scenic and photogenic spots include Gamble Cove Dahlias, where 250-plus varieties of seasonal blooms end in October. And of course, one of the Northwest’s most-photographed churches solemnly sits in Port Gamble, too. Built in 1879 and modeled after a Maine church the town’s founders frequented, St. Paul’s Church showcases stained glass windows, a traditional bell and handsome bones.
For activities, the Olympic Outdoor Center offers private sea kayaking tours of Port Gamble Bay, Hood Head and Hood Canal from its Port Gamble location. The Port Gamble Theater built in 1906, offers family-friendly community theater and musical productions such as A Charlie Brown Christmas.
Annual Port Gamble events include a Ghost Conference in November, Country Christmas and Summer Faire. The upcoming Country Christmas strings the town with more than 100,000 lights and features horse-drawn hayrides, carolers, fireworks and a Santa’s workshop experience.
Super-popular Butcher and Baker Provisions is one of the town’s few restaurants. Limited indoor seating means you’ll likely sit next to new people at the long communal table or smaller four- and five-person tables. But the seasonal twists on traditional comfort food make any awkwardness worthwhile.
Feast on affordable, gourmet dishes like a habanero-flecked patty melt or pork loin stuffed with sauteed kale and cremini mushroom duxelles. Save room for one of the baker’s extra-rich cakes, or take it to go. On sunnier or warmer days, picnic tables dot the nearby green, and you can always put on layers for outdoor dining.
Beyond Port Gamble
Sleep in a Port Gamble vacation rental, or head 10 miles north across the beautiful Hood Canal Floating Bridge to the deluxe Port Ludlow Resort, which features a marina, golf and dining. Sit in the award-winning Fireside dining room and watch seaplanes take off and land in the waters outside.
Or just stroll the restaurant’s hallway to learn more about the region’s logging history through photos and newspaper articles. The resort’s marina offers e-bike, kayak, stand-up paddleboards and other watercraft rentals.
For more weekend walks, try nearby options: A quick, 0.6-mile stroll up Ludlow Falls Interpretive Trail, visiting Shine Tidelands State Park at the Squamish Harbor’s entrance or picnicking and clamming at Wolfe Property State Park.
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