Eggs too pricey? This reliable substitute might already be in your pantry

AT THE GROCERY STORE one winter day, I paused at the refrigerator case of eggs on the off chance of finding a deal. Instead, I was greeted with prices nearing $1 per egg, and four laminated signs. Three of the signs were pleas for patience by the American Egg Board; the fourth suggested that customers talk to a store employee about price increases related to state legislation that took effect last year requiring retailers to sell only cage-free eggs. I laughed at that one, but only in sympathy with those in retail.

The egg situation isn’t particularly funny. While Waffle House made the headline-grabbing choice of an egg surcharge, in Seattle’s Georgetown neighborhood, Conscious Eatery discontinued breakfast service rather than raise prices on its egg dishes (it remains open for lunch and catering). Kent-based Smith Brothers, my usual source, increased its price $1 per dozen after holding steady for months. Most upsettingly, shortages meant that the University District Food Bank couldn’t provide eggs the same week that Cal-Maine, the country’s largest egg producer, was so profitable it initiated a $500 million stock buyback.

Avian flu is global, but our highly consolidated egg operations — calling them farms seems disingenuous — frequently house hundreds of thousands of birds, more than 10 times the average size of Canadian operations. When one U.S. site has an outbreak, it takes out a greater percentage of the supply. In January, the USDA Food Price Outlook claimed a 37 percent year-over-year price increase (we have noticed!) and estimated another 20 percent increase before January 2026 (ouch!).

This mess might not result in rationing like my grandparents experienced, but it calls for adjustments in the kitchen. Happily, or perhaps resignedly, a fine egg substitute lurks within a different protein source. If you’re not already familiar with aquafaba (the thick liquid surrounding cooked beans), you should be. Within each bean can, you will find a versatile replacement for about three eggs. The price for a can of beans is a buck or two. This should collectively raise the eyebrows of bargain hunters everywhere.

Any vegan cook likely knows about aquafaba, but here are the key points. Chemically, it has no fat, just proteins, foaming agents and water, so it’s more like an egg white than a whole egg. Like egg whites, the more you beat it, the more it inflates, making fluffy meringue possible. The blander the bean (think salt-free chickpeas or great northern beans), the more adaptable the liquid, but I’ve made great use of salted black beans and pinto beans in more full-flavored recipes. The water-protein mix remaining after cooking dry beans has many variables, so cans are preferred for consistent results.

Nobody recommends straight aquafaba for scrambled eggs, but in baking it is broadly effective. Aside from a sticky failure when using it with a boxed brownie mix, all my tests rated highly enough to merit aquafaba’s use in my kitchen for as long as it takes for the egg industry to get sorted.

Whipping the liquid to maximum volume, I made aquafaba pavlova and crisp waffles. Lightly whipping it to the point of soft foam, I made terrific quick breads, crumb cake and a batch of surprisingly good popovers. If you want to adapt your own recipes, 3 tablespoons (45 grams) of aquafaba is considered to be the equivalent of a large egg, and 2 tablespoons (30 grams) is an egg white. For my preferred thick and chewy cookies, I learned that using melted butter and mixing by hand got the best results, as did replacing only the volume of the egg white. Anything more, or using a stand mixer, resulted in a cakey cookie.

Spiced Chocolate Aquafaba Cookies
Makes about 20

3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) butter, melted
3/4 cup brown sugar
3/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons aquafaba (liquid from any can of unseasoned beans)
2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup chopped almonds (optional)
3/4 cup chocolate chips

1. Heat oven to 325 degrees F. Line two baking sheets with parchment and set aside.
2. In a large mixing bowl, combine melted butter, brown sugar, sugar, vanilla extract, cocoa powder, cinnamon and cayenne. Stir until mixture holds together smoothly.
3. Add aquafaba, mixing just until dough is smooth.
4. Add flour, baking soda and salt, stirring until almost no streaks of flour remain. Add almonds and chocolate chips, and continue stirring until all flour is incorporated.
5. Shape dough into 1 1/2 tablespoon balls and place on prepared baking sheets. Bake for 12-13 minutes, until edges are slightly crisp and centers are set. Will keep at room temperature for 1 day, or freeze for up to 1 month.