Q: I had the exterior of my house (wood siding) painted in September. The product on the house prior to this was an opaque oil stain. My painter used a...

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Q: I had the exterior of my house (wood siding) painted in September. The product on the house prior to this was an opaque oil stain. My painter used a solid stain, which was applied with a sprayer, then back-brushed.

Almost right after painting, I noticed that the paint looked splotchy. The painter said I needed to wait for it to fully dry. It looks the same now. The gloss that solid stain tends to have is much more pronounced in some areas than others, and it’s like this all over the house.

My painter and the area sales rep from the paint manufacturer have been out to look at it and agree that it doesn’t look good. However, they haven’t offered any solutions. The rep is now saying that this “sometimes” happens with oil-based stain — and that I should have used latex.

Have you heard of this problem before? It’s definitely not right, and yet nobody so far is willing to take responsibility.

A: If the product is inferior, which they are as much as admitting, then the paint manufacturer should be paying for a new paint job. However, If there are specific recommendations on this product not to use it under these specific conditions, then your painter should be paying for a new paint job. Not you, in any case.

I happen to agree with the rep about oil-based material being inferior and inconsistent, as it quite often ends up splotchy and chalky, but usually not until after a few years.

Make a request of the paint manufacturer to confirm via its chemists/product support personnel that the product was applied per manufacturer’s recommendations.

If it was, then make a formal request to have them pay for a new paint job. If it was not, then do so with the painter.

Q: I am doing some drywall repair work in a bathroom. On one wall, I have cut away damaged drywall near the sink cabinet. The nearest stud is many inches behind the cabinet, so I have nothing to attach the new drywall to. The drywall joint where I made my cut will be hanging in midair. I am afraid if I put drywall compound and tape on this joint it will crack and break.

Is there some kind of metal brace I could put in here, like a drywall corner piece or something? It seems like a horrible task to somehow install a stud in the cavity behind the joint. Or do I need to remove the cabinet and cut back the drywall to the next stud?

A: Simply take a scrap piece of 2-by-4 as long as the drywall is cut and set it into the wall. Take your drywall screws and connect your original drywall to half of the 2-by-4. Cut the new drywall, set it in place and attach it to the other side of the 2-by-4. Then mud and tape the joint, and you will be good as new.

Darrell Hay is a local home inspector and manages several rental properties. Send home-maintenance questions to dhay@seattletimes.com. Sorry, no personal replies. More columns at www.seattletimes.com/columnists.