Now you can eat the same bread that you get at Renee Erickson’s restaurants at home — if it makes it that far from Sea Wolf bakery.
You may have had the sourdough bread at The Whale Wins, Bar Melusine or another Renee Erickson restaurant. You’d remember it.
Light and airy, the gorgeous round loaf doesn’t hit you over the head with sourness. Its crust is chewy, but not overly hard. Pair it with the right butter, and you’d easily be tempted to eat the whole loaf.
And now you can do just that — at home, no less.
Sea Wolf Bakers
3621 Stone Way N. (Fremont), Seattle; open Wednesday-Sunday 7 a.m.-3 p.m., closed Monday-Tuesday; 206-457-4181 or seawolfbakers.com
Brothers Kit and Jesse Schumann founded Sea Wolf Bakers in 2014, baking the bread at night using borrowed kitchens. First they used Susan Kaplan and Renee Erickson’s Boat Street Cafe; then they switched to Dino’s Tomato Pie. Finally, in August, they moved into their own home in Fremont, next to Manolin on Stone Way.
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Walk up to the counter and choose from the trays on an industrial baking rack. Then head to one of the four tables in the open, high-ceilinged space, and watch the staff use a giant wooden paddle to move loaves in and out of the oven as you munch on your favorite pastry.
You’ll have more than one favorite.
The menu: Breads, rolls and pastries, plus coffee from Brandywine Coffee Roasters, all top-notch.
Don’t miss: Everything?
That sourdough loaf I’ve already raved about is still what I love best, but close behind is the baguette, with a great crispness to the crust and a soft, light center. It’s longer and thinner than most, the perfect size to slice and serve with cheese.
A hefty half-loaf of dense sourdough rye bread was handed over still warm. Moist and spongy inside, it is quite tangy (maybe too much so for the rye-shy), with an excellent crunchy exterior.
The lye rolls are what a pretzel always wanted to be. One variety is topped with mushrooms and Emmental cheese, sprinkled with salt and beautifully toasted sesame seeds. Others come plain, or with cheddar cheese. All cry out for a beer.
And the pastries! The super-light croissants get flakes all over the place, possessing the exact right shattering exterior. Treat yourself to the chocolate one, with a bittersweet center. Or try the other sweet (on my visit, apple and anise) or savory (mushroom, caraway, Emmental) versions.
A tip: If you’re ordering for a party, give them a day’s notice for a dozen or more pastries, and you’ll get a 10 percent discount.
Prices: A ton of delicious baked goods — a baguette ($3.50), a white sourdough boule ($7), half a rye loaf ($4.50), a plain lye roll ($1), a mushroom lye roll ($2.25), a plain croissant ($3.25), a chocolate and a sweet croissant ($3.75 each) — plus a cup of coffee ($2.50) totaled $31.50, before tax and tip.