In Maurice Sendak’s classic children’s book, “Where the Wild Things Are,” the Wild Things are hardly mild. When the main character, a little boy named Max, meets these monsters, he first notices their “terrible” roars, teeth, eyes and claws. A rumpus ensues, and Max comes to learn that these monsters aren’t terrible at all. They’re just Wild Things: unpredictable and exciting. The same is true of wild salmon.
While farmed salmon is tame in taste — the result of controlled environments — wild salmon tastes like hard-earned adventure. Its well-exercised flesh is lean and meaty. Its flavor is nuanced and robust from foraging for food. And its color is deep, ranging from hot pink to ruby red.
If wild salmon’s firm texture or intense flavor has ever surprised you, know that you’re just tasting salmon that has run free — what a treat. Follow these tips to better understand, appreciate and cook this wild thing.
How to cook wild salmon
This two-step method allows you to enjoy the rich flavor of wild salmon without overcooking. Because it has more collagen and less fat than farmed salmon, wild salmon has firmer flesh and is easier to dry out. To seal in its moisture, brine it in saltwater for 15 to 30 minutes and bake it at a low temperature to just 120 degrees for medium-rare. (The fish will continue to cook outside the oven.)
Baking works for all sizes and types of wild salmon, including long, gorgeous, red sides of sockeye, which can be tricky to maneuver in a skillet or over grill grates.
The best salmon to choose at the store
You can find wild salmon in the fresh fish section of many grocery stores, but look in the frozen aisle, too. Often flash frozen shortly after being caught, frozen fish maintain their peak taste more than the defrosted fish displayed on ice. Simply thaw it by refrigerating it overnight uncovered on a paper towel-lined plate. Or, if you’re in a hurry, place the fish in a resealable plastic bag in a bowl of cold water, replacing the water every 30 minutes or so to keep it cold.
If the only option available is in the fresh case, choose fillets that are firm, shiny, uniform in color and don’t smell like much of anything.
What different types of wild salmon taste like
Because wild salmon have more active lives and varied diets than farmed fish, their taut flesh tastes more complex and is nuanced according to their surroundings. The three main types of Pacific salmon sold fresh or frozen have some clear differences. Chinook (king) is buttery like Atlantic salmon but with firmer flesh. Sockeye (red) is deep red and meaty with a bold flavor. Coho (silver) falls somewhere between the two.
Whether it headlines your next dinner party or boosts a weeknight meal, wild salmon season is a reason to celebrate — and to cook.
Baked Wild Salmon
Total time: 1 hour
Servings: 4
INGREDIENTS
- ¼ cup kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) or 2 tablespoons fine sea salt, plus more if needed
- 1½ pounds wild salmon, such as coho, king or sockeye, cut in fillets or kept whole
- Extra-virgin olive oil or unsalted butter, for greasing and cooking
- Black pepper
- Lemon wedges, plain Greek yogurt, flaky sea salt or a combination (optional), for serving
STEPS
- In a sheet pan or baking dish that fits your salmon, use a fork to stir together the salt and 4 cups water until the salt has dissolved. Add the salmon skin side up. If the flesh isn’t submerged, add another cup of water and tablespoon salt; it’s OK if the skin isn’t submerged. Let sit at room temperature or 15 to 30 minutes while you prepare the rest of your meal.
- Heat the oven to 275 degrees.
- Drain and pat dry the salmon and pan. Line or grease the pan, then add the salmon skin side down. Drizzle with olive oil or dot with a few thin slices of butter. Season with black pepper.
- Bake for 10 to 35 minutes depending on the size and type of your fish; the fish should be opaque at the edges but still slightly wet and translucent in the center (the salmon will continue to cook out of the oven). The thickest part should register between 115 and 120 degrees. Serve with a squeeze of lemon, dollop of Greek yogurt or sprinkle of flaky salt, or a combination, as you like.