Delicious Chinese street sandwiches at Pike Place Market.

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From noodle master Cheng Biao Yang, the original owner of Chinatown International District stalwart Seven Stars Pepper, this Pike Place Market cubby focuses on guo kui, a stuffed Szechuan flatbread that’s popular in China as street food. Rolled out by hand, then browned and leavened in an oven that’s a cross between a kiln and a tandoor, the pastry pillows have a pleasing crackle of an exterior, with soft, warm Szechuan spiced goodness stuffed inside.

And don’t worry, the hand-shaved noodles that made Yang’s reputation are also available at Country Dough.

The menu: There are three baseline options — flatbreads ($5 or $5.50), crêpes ($5.50, $6.50 or $7) or noodles ($7.95) — each available with various sauces and proteins.

Country Dough

Szechuan

1916 Pike Place, Suite 14, Seattle (206 728-2598 or countrydough.com)

Hours: 10 a.m.-6 p.m. daily

Etc: major credit cards accepted; no alcohol; the usual Pike Place Market parking challenges; no obstacles to access

Prices: $

What to write home about: The cumin-sauce flatbread had the slow-building heat characteristic of Szechuan cuisine, alongside a savory complexity. The Chinese crêpe was eggy and silky the way a crêpe should be, with a nice kick from the spicy sauce. In texture, noodles were the platonic ideal of the form, though they could have used a tad more seasoning.

What to skip: Takeout. These fresh-baked numbers are best enjoyed hot. Also, as almost everything’s made to order, be prepared to wait a bit at peak times.

The setting: Bigger than a kiosk, but not by much, Country Dough has only outdoor seating in an adjacent courtyard tucked deep in the Market.

Summing up: One Szechuan flatbread with pork, one cumin-sauce flatbread with chicken, one Chinese crêpe, one order of sweet-and-spicy dry noodles and two iced teas — enough to feed four — came to $42.46 with tax and tip.