This recipe was tested by CeCe Sullivan of The Seattle Times food staff and evaluated by staff members.

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8 to 10 servings

– 3½ pounds sweet potatoes (see note*)

– 7 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

– 6 tablespoons whipping cream or half-and-half

– Scant ½ teaspoon ground allspice

– Scant ½ teaspoon ground ginger

– Scant ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg

– ½ teaspoon salt

– ½ teaspoon fresh ground black pepper

– 3 tablespoons brown sugar

– 3 tablespoons lemon juice

– Nonstick cooking spray

– 2 cups large marshmallows, each cut into quarters (see note**)

1. Place a sheet of heavy-duty foil on center oven rack and preheat to 425 degrees. Pierce each sweet potato in several places and place in oven. Bake about 1 hour, or until very tender when tested in the centers. Remove from oven and cool slightly.

2. When cool enough to handle, open the potatoes and scrape the flesh into a large bowl. Add 6 tablespoons butter, cream, allspice, ginger, nutmeg, salt, pepper, brown sugar and lemon juice. Mash with a potato masher until semi-smooth. (The dish can be made 24 hours in advance. Cover and refrigerate. Remove from refrigerator 1 hour before baking.)

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3. Spray a 2½-quart casserole dish with cooking spray. Pile the mashed sweet potatoes into the dish. Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven about 20 minutes. Top with marshmallows and continue baking 25 minutes, or until golden on top.

* Note: Try to use the red-fleshed Jewel or Garnet variety of sweet potato. The Garnet is often labeled as a yam in supermarkets.

** Note: ‘Handmade’ marshmallows, available at Whole Foods, are fun to use in this recipe.

— Adapted from “One Potato Two Potato” by Roy Finamore and Molly Stevens.