This recipe was tested by CeCe Sullivan of The Seattle Times food staff and evaluated by staff members.

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4 to 6 servings

– 2½ pounds sweet potatoes

– 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into chunks and softened

– ¼ cup milk, cream or half-and-half

– 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves

– ½ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

– 1/8 teaspoon ground allspice

– ½ teaspoon kosher salt

1. Peel sweet potatoes and cut into 1½-inch chunks. Place in a steamer basket set over boiling water, cover and steam 15 to 20 minutes, or until tender. Drain well and place in a large bowl. Mash coarsely.

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2. Add butter, milk, thyme, pepper, allspice and salt. Mash until smooth and serve warm.

Note: The potatoes can be mashed several hours in advance. Transfer to a lightly buttered casserole dish and refrigerate. Reheat in a 300-degree oven about 30 minutes, or until hot in the center.

— From “One Potato Two Potato” by Roy Finamore with Molly Stevens.