At Proletariat Pizza in White Center, the star of the show is the dough. Pizzas come in 10 varieties, ranging from the classic to the unorthodox ("Ham and Egg," "Real Hawaiian"with Spam).

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Pizza for the people.

That’s the motto written across the front door of Proletariat Pizza, with a raised fist for its logo.

But ideological overtones have nothing to do with the underlying reality of the White Center restaurant, where the star of the show is the dough — hand-kneaded crust rolled out deliciously thin in the center yet still soft and pillowy at the edges.

The family-friendly restaurant also has draft beer (Big Al’s Red), fresh root beer from Full Tilt Ice Cream across the street, and a selection of bottled beers and wine served in stemless glasses.

The menu: Pizzas are 18 inches, with 10 varieties ranging from classic flavors (like the tomato-basil- mozzarella of a margherita) to the unorthodox (a “Real Hawaiian” with Spam instead of ham). Pizzas are available whole, by the half or, in some cases, by the slice.

The menu is fairly sparse beyond that, with one type of salad and homemade tiramisu for dessert.

What to write home about: “The Favorite” ($18 whole/$10.50 half) is fantastic, mixing Mama Lil’s peppers with Italian sausage and fresh chopped garlic. The sausage, crumbled over the top, is delicious and moist. The chopped garlic adds great flavor without overpowering.

The “Ham and Egg” ($18/$10.50) is a nod to breakfast, pairing prosciutto with four soft eggs, the yolks still a little runny, perfect for being sopped up by the crust.

I enjoyed the homemade tiramisu ($5), but my wife thought it was a little heavy on the cocoa and mascarpone cream.

What to skip: The mixed green salad ($4) includes garbanzo beans, Kalamata olives and balsamic vinaigrette — all overwhelmed by the Gorgonzola cheese.

The setting: The restaurant opened in September and is in a space formerly occupied by a bakery. The sign out front lacks lighting and the high ceilings inside make it feel a bit cavernous. But the open kitchen is a nice touch, letting you watch as the dough is shaped and slid into the oven.

Summing up: An 18-inch pizza (half “The Favorite” and half “Ham and Egg”), salad, tiramisu, draft beer and root beer came to $36.30. I’d suggest getting there before the restaurant becomes more popular.

Danny O’Neil: 206-464-2364 or doneil@seattletimes.com