America’s favorite adopted food takes a morning turn. Try it at these five Seattle spots.
Welcome to the arguably unholy union of America’s adopted favorite food and the most important meal of the day: breakfast pizza. Its origins are uncertain. Perhaps the Earl of Sandwich played cards all night, was on a hot streak into the morning, wanted some food that could be eaten one-handed, but had tired of the breakfast sandwich? In any case, breakfast pizza is, as they say, a win-win. Try it at these five Seattle spots, but choose carefully: Pizza with breakfast on top of it varies more than you might think, and some places serve it on weekends only.
Bill’s Off Broadway
Beloved Bill’s pulled off a Capitol Hill coup: After 35 years, it got demolished for new construction, then recently reopened on the exact same corner. Some of the same woodwork is still inside (though for re-enactment realism, it needs more plants). Bill’s pizza is polarizing. Its thick stratum of cheese (mozzarella, jack and cheddar) and spongy crust contain such prodigious amounts of golden grease, it’s served on a screen for drippage. This pie is responsible for the smeariness of innumerable iPhones. The breakfast version — scrambled eggs, Canadian bacon, regular bacon, Italian sausage, peppers, onions and white sauce — is more like a casserole on a porous flatbread than anything else, raising philosophical questions: What is breakfast? What is pizza? Does the meaning of life matter when this $9.50 “personal” size disc of food is ready to return you to unconsciousness? 725 E. Pine St., Seattle (206-420-7493 or billsoffbroadway.net)
This place is in Ballard, but its heart is in the Midwest, and its arteries are definitely well on the way to clogged — even the bloody mary comes with a cheese curd in it. The menu says the breakfast pizzas are 12”, but that’s an understatement, and height varies from an inch to two-plus. What accounts for this pie’s uneven terrain: Tater. Tots. The Bud Grant — he’s an old-time football star, according to the server, who was as nice as the best of Minneapolis/Saint Paul — has a not-unpleasant, crackery crust loaded with bacon, Canadian bacon, Italian sausage, onions, green olives, cheese and approximately Two. Dozen. Tater. Tots. It cost $18. Three people came nowhere near finishing it (leftovers!). Have you truly lived a full life as a citizen of this great country until you’ve had breakfast pizza with tater tots on it? No. 5405 Leary Ave. N.W., Seattle (206-783-7777 or zaydabuddyspizza.com)
Bill’s and Zayda Buddy’s breakfast pizza are a hangover’s enemy; Serious Pie’s version is the one you can eat after yoga class without a serious loss of namaste. No cheese blanket here, just a pretty pile of lightly lemony arugula; the garlic’s more assertive than the Pecorino sardo. Under the salad, soft-cooked eggs taste notably fresh and rich-yolked, and if you happen to get a smaller corner piece that lacks smoked prosciutto, sneak an exchange. Out of all the breakfast pizza contenders, Serious Pie’s crust was the most serious: Neapolitan style, elastic and thin but still substantial enough to not flop, with blistery, deep-browned bubbles here and there (the mark of a good, hot wood-fired oven — apple wood, here). For $18, it’s enough for two of the kind of disciplined people who’d prefer it to a casserole-on-a-crust. Various Seattle locations (seriouspieseattle.com)
Most Read Life Stories
- Your guide to the Top 10 ski areas near Seattle for the 2022-23 season
- How to avoid getting banned on Airbnb
- You can’t resist this easy squash-chickpea recipe
- What’s new in WA snow country: Ski-area updates, parking, La Niña, backcountry and more
- Rant & Rave: Public transit makes Thanksgiving trip a breeze
Hands-down the most upscale place to get breakfast pizza in town, Stoneburner in Ballard has all the appeal that a spendy reproduction of a European brasserie can muster — tile floors, marble counters, a Deco-ish bar. The breakfast pizza has an almost paper-thin crust topped with golden slices of potato (just as thin, yet with the distinct potatoes taste of a good gratin), house-made bacon (plenty of it), two sunnyside-up eggs (good for dredging crust through), a hint of high-quality Parmesan, and a grind or two of black pepper for a little taste wake-up. The crust lacks any blisters for textural interest, but still, for $15, this would be a good one to share for a civilized morning after. 5214 Ballard Ave. N.W., Seattle (206-695-2051 or stoneburnerseattle.com)
While all the breakfast pizzas here have their virtues (some in the form of vices, i.e., tater tots and crisscrossing strips of house-made bacon), Mioposto’s alone scored in terms of fearless flavor. Their house-made Tutto Calabria sauce — invisible to the naked eye, presumably the same as their house-made Tutto Calabria oil — gave the whole pie a sneaky spicy heat. Those who usually put hot sauce on their eggs will love it. The crust was thin but not too thin, with a little blackening here and there; the two sunnyside-up eggs were thoughtfully positioned in the middle, blessing every slice; chopped pancetta made for easier bites; and a modicum of mozzarella and grana added umami without undue weight. The breakfast size, at $10.95, is enough for one person who might be willing to share. Note: Mioposto also has breakfast stromboli, but pizza’s more popular than stromboli for a reason, regardless of the time of day. Various Seattle locations (miopostopizza.com)