Grilled slaw with sesame and ginger

Makes: 6 servings

Total time: 30 minutes

For the slaw:

Canola or grapeseed oil, for brushing the grate

1 head napa cabbage (about 2 pounds)

1 Asian pear

2 scallions

2 to 3 tablespoons sesame oil, plus 3 tablespoons for the dressing

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 red bell pepper

2 jalapeños

For the dressing:

2 tablespoons sugar, plus more to taste

1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger

1 garlic clove, minced

2 tablespoons rice vinegar, plus more to taste

2 tablespoons black or toasted white sesame seeds (optional)

1 teaspoon Chinese or Vietnamese chile paste (optional)

1. Light your grill, building a hot fire and set it up for direct grilling. Brush or scrape the grill grate clean and grease it with a tightly folded paper towel dipped in canola oil.

2. Meanwhile, cut the cabbage lengthwise into quarters through the core. Cut the pear in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Lightly brush the cabbage, pear and scallions all over with 2 to 3 tablespoons sesame oil and season with salt and pepper.

3. Grill the cabbage until darkly charred on all sides, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Char just the outside; the inside should remain cool, firm and crisp. Transfer to a sheet pan to cool.

4. Grill the cut sides of the pear until grill-marked, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Grill the scallions, bell pepper and jalapeños until grill-marked, turning halfway through, about 4 minutes. Transfer to the sheet pan. Let the vegetables cool to room temperature.

5. Make the dressing: In a large bowl, mash together the sugar, ginger and garlic with 1/2 teaspoon each salt and pepper. Add the rice vinegar and whisk until the salt and sugar are dissolved. Whisk in the remaining 3 tablespoons sesame oil, plus the sesame seeds and chile paste, if using.

6. Cut away and discard the core of each cabbage quarter, then thinly slice the charred cooled napa cabbage crosswise, and add it to the dressing. Julienne the pear, bell pepper and jalapeño and add them to the slaw, discarding the bell pepper and jalapeño seeds. Thinly slice the scallions crosswise, discarding the root ends, and add them as well.

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7. Taste the slaw for seasoning, adding more vinegar, sugar and salt to taste. Refrigerate until serving and serve within a couple hours of mixing.

Ember-Roasted Slaw With Mint

Makes: 6 servings

Total time: 30 minutes

3 tablespoons cider vinegar, plus more to taste

3 tablespoons sugar, plus more to taste

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 tablespoon Düsseldorf or Dijon-style mustard

1/2 to 1 teaspoon caraway seeds

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 head savoy cabbage (about 2 pounds), quartered lengthwise through core

1/4 cup thinly sliced fresh mint

1. Light a charcoal or wood-burning grill and let the coals burn down to glowing embers.

2. Meanwhile, make the dressing: In a large bowl, whisk the vinegar and sugar until sugar dissolves. Whisk in the oil, followed by the mustard and caraway seeds. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

3. Lay the cabbage quarters directly on the coals and roast until all sides are charred, turning with tongs, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to a sheet pan and let cool.

4. Discard the tough core of the cabbage then thinly slice the cabbage crosswise. Add the sliced cabbage to the dressing and toss to coat. Season with salt, sugar and vinegar to taste. Refrigerate until serving and serve within a couple hours of mixing. Just before serving, stir in the mint.

Smoked Cabbage Slaw With Creamy Horseradish

Makes: 6 servings

Total time: 30 minutes

For the slaw:

1 Honey Crisp or other firm apple

1 small head green cabbage (about 1 1/4 pounds), quartered through the core

1 small white onion, peeled and quartered

2 carrots, trimmed and peeled

1/2 cup yellow raisins

Ice, for smoking

For the dressing:

1/2 cup mayonnaise

3 tablespoons prepared horseradish

2 tablespoons cider vinegar, plus more to taste

2 tablespoons sugar, plus more to taste

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1/2 teaspoon celery seed

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Set up your smoker following the manufacturer’s instructions and heat to 225 degrees. Add applewood or hickory wood as specified by the manufacturer. If using a charcoal grill, set it up for indirect grilling, using half a chimney starter of coals instead of a full chimney. Add wood chips or chunks to the coals following the manufacturer’s instructions.

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2. Meanwhile, peel and core the apple, then cut the cabbage, onion, apple and carrots into thin shreds on a mandoline, in a food processor fitted with a shredding or slicing disk, or with a chef’s knife. Stir the raisins into the slaw. Working in batches if necessary, divide the mixture among 2 disposable 9-by-13-inch aluminum foil drip pans; spread in a loosely packed even layer. (Cabbage mixture should be no deeper than 1 inch.) Place each pan over another 9-by-13 aluminum pan of ice so the vegetables smoke without cooking.

3. Transfer pans to the smoker or grill, cover and smoke until lightly bronzed with smoke but still raw, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer smoked slaw mixture to a large bowl and repeat as necessary to smoke any remaining slaw.

4. Meanwhile, make the dressing: Combine the mayonnaise, horseradish, vinegar, sugar, mustard and celery seed in another large bowl and whisk until the sugar is dissolved. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

5. Stir the smoked vegetable mixture into the dressing; season to taste with salt, sugar and vinegar. Serve right away, or refrigerate, covered, up to a few hours before serving.