Brought to you by the pizza-master behind Windy City Pie, ensconced inside a neighborhood's favorite new club, Breezy Town is easy to love.
The pizza: Dave Lichterman is a master of the form — you may have heard tell of (or eaten as much as you can of) his original enterprise, Windy City Pie, which makes Chicago-style deep-dish so good, people used to meet him in a parking lot to pick it up. (Now Windy City has an actual building, in Interbay.) He’s not much interested in parsing matters of regional authenticity with Breezy Town (and hooray for that). Just call it Midwestern pan pizza — “the bastard child” of Detroit- and Chicago-style, he says.
“As long as you like it, it doesn’t matter,” Lichterman laughs. The whole pies are majestic: round and fat, with caramelized deliciousness all around the perimeter. He worked on the sourdough crust for a year to get it right, and it’s pillowy-perfect, with lofty air bubbles and a sense of substance without any over-density. A big, fat slice of pepperoni ($4.25) is a thing of beauty, all greasy-meaty-saltiness with a ping of bright tomato sauce, ideally accompanied by a cold beer. A festival-of-peppers pie ($5) on the daily slice menu recently won over the pepper-skeptical with just the right spicy heat, plus some that tasted a little bit sweet. The weird-sounding experiment Black ‘chuan ($4.50) — chicken sausage, big pieces of mushroom, “veggie hash,” scallions for colorful zing, and a sweet-and-salty-rich hoisin-sauce reduction — was, really, a revelation. And there’s always the Toddler slice ($4): just cheese and red sauce and fresh basil, ready for the timid (or for actual toddlers — Breezy Town/Clock-Out is all ages until 8 p.m. nightly).
The salads: The Caesar looks basic, but it does everything just right: crunchy-fresh romaine, enough garlic to say hel-LO without overpowering, lemony-brightness, parm already incorporated, buttery croutons that aren’t overly big. One suggestion: The full-size plate of salad (for just $6) looks very nice, but it’d be easier to eat if it were tossed first (which would also get those croutons started mingling in there). The Breezy Town beet salad ($7) is another winning version of a classic: peppery arugula, sweet beets, bits of sharp blue cheese, crumbles of roasted pistachio for crunch.
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The brunch!: I cannot wait to try Breezy Town’s special brunch slices, including a take on egg in a nest ($5, with poached eggs, cheese, red sauce, veggie/potato hash and arugula, plus optional bacon and hot sauce — um, yes) and a slice called Pizza ‘n’ Gravy ($4.50, um, yesssss). Brunch also means Bloody Mary and mimosa bars (again, I accept this challenge). The appointed hours are Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., with soul DJs on Sunday from 2 to 6 p.m. (yet another great idea).
The place: Clock-Out Lounge is brand-new, but it already feels loved. It’s medium sized, fairly dark, refreshingly un-overdecorated (which lets the sparkly gold curtains shine), completely comfortable and pretty much perfect. Later at night, bands or DJs play; every other Tuesday means Rock ‘n’ Roll Trivia, while Wednesdays are for live comedy. “Here we are in this beautiful room full of pizza and friendship,” a comedian said mid-joke recently, and everybody laughed, but it also felt true.
The drink special: Right now, $8 gets you a tallboy PNW lager and a well whiskey at the bar. Order your pizza separately, under the sign of the neon slice.
Breezy Town Pizza
Pizza; 4864 Beacon Ave. S., inside Clock-Out Lounge (Beacon Hill), Seattle; breezytownpizza.com; 4 p.m.-midnight Monday-Thursday; 4 p.m.-1:30 a.m. Friday; 11 a.m.-1:30 a.m. Saturday; 11 a.m.-midnight Sunday; all ages until 8 p.m. nightly