Grilled cheese, mac and cheese: At Melt, it’s all about the cheese

Judging by its short but artery-clogging menu, Melt seems to have one goal: to coat every morsel in a gluttonous medley of fromage.

Opened in mid-March inside Bar Sue on Capitol Hill, this walk-up window is from the same folks behind Nate’s Wings & Waffles and the Happy Grillmore food truck. It replaces the Atta-Boy sandwich shack, which closed earlier this year when its owner left for Los Angeles.

The menu: Choose between five over-the-top takes on mac-and-cheese and five grilled-cheese options. Sandwiches are served with coleslaw or chips. On a diet? You came to the wrong place. Fries are topped with cheddar sauce and bacon or decked out as poutine.

Don’t miss: Down a couple of “The Fatter Elvis” sandwiches, and you’ll look like the King in his late years; bacon is slathered with a seductive creamy blend of mascarpone, peanut butter and bananas, dusted with powdered sugar. “The Monte Cristo” ($14) sandwich was stacked with black forest ham, Gruyère, Granny Smith slices and strawberry jam, a mingling of fruity-sweetness and nutty savoriness. It’s brunch at midnight.

“The Bacon Gorgonzola” was the best of the mac-and-cheese options — al dente penne pasta covered in a gooey blend of cheddar, fontina and Gorgonzola with bacon bits. It will taste even better the next day.

What to skip: “The Caprese” pressed sandwich was a soggy mess, with fresh mozzarella, fresh Roma tomato slices and basil wilting under the heat. “The Gnocchi Truffle Mac” was more a fondue of fontina, Gruyère and rosemary truffle oil with floating starchy nuggets.

The setting: Order from the window inside Bar Sue. It’s a convenient partnership for two small-business owners, though not a perfect match. The food pairs better with wine, but the bar is more focused on whiskey.

Summing up: Two sandwiches (caprese $12 and Fatter Elvis $10) and two sides of mac and cheese (gnocchi truffle Mac $7, bacon Gorgonzola $6) totaled $35, enough for two to three.