Vaca Loca The Latin Taste serves up Latin fusion cuisine and stellar sandwiches. The portions are ample without venturing into overkill. The Cubano pork sandwich is particularly good.

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What a delight to find a fabulous Cuban pork sandwich in Seattle that doesn’t aspire to spectacle.

I ran across one recently at Vaca Loca the Latin Taste, a small eatery tucked away in the rear of Broadway Alley, a shotgun-style mall on Capitol Hill.

Vaca Loca serves up a rich and flavorful slow-roasted pork sandwich with ham, Swiss cheese, pickles and mustard on grilled Cuban bread that fills your belly without leaving you feeling like a glutton.

Vaca Loca the Latin Taste

Latin fusion

219 Broadway E, Suite 14, Seattle

206-595-2018

www.facebook.com/vacalocaseattlelatinrestaurant?_rdr

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesday-Friday, 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Saturday and Sunday

Etc.: MasterCard and Visa accepted; beer and wine; some spirits; street parking; wheelchair accessible

Prices: $-$$

The sandwich alone is worth the trip, but owner Daniel Rosero provides many more reasons to stop in.

Rosero crisscrosses borders to bring a selection of Latin dishes to satisfy any craving you might have, from molé enchiladas to Colombian beef stew.

The servings are ample, and the restaurant’s warm, earnest service makes a visit here worth the journey.

The menu: Newly revamped, it features a variety of Latin cuisines, including a selection of sandwiches for $8.50: the stellar Cubano pork; the country chicken with ham, cheese and a trio of chimichurri, tartar and garlic sauces; and the grilled fish with Creole, tartar and garlic sauces.

Grilled entrees include bacon-wrapped beef with mushroom sauce, potatoes, rice and salad ($15.50), coconut shrimp in fruit sauce with salad ($14) and barbecue spare ribs ($14.50)

The weekend brunch menu, served from 8:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., features huevos rancheros ($9.50), Latin eggs Benedict ($9.95), eggs with chimichurri sauce, hash browns, Cuban toast and bacon or sausage ($8.95), and a Spanish omelet ($8.95).

What to write home about: The sandwiches and the chilaquiles — crispy tortillas with tomatillo salsa, queso fresco, sour cream onions and chicken ($9.95).

The setting: An intimate, casual space with a small bar area and tables for about 20 diners.

Summing up: A Cubano sandwich, chilaquiles and chicken enchiladas with molé ($9.99) came to $26.44, before tax and tip.