Dustin Ronspies’ Art of the Table, reviewed

I like to imagine that during the many years I spent writing full-blown reviews, I’d introduce readers to a restaurant and have them immediately say, “Wow! That place sounds great!” — before rushing to make reservations. That’s exactly how I felt this morning when I read Providence Cicero’s review of Art of the Table, in Wallingford, where she sings the praises of 34-year-old chef Dustin Ronspies:

And now I can kick myself for not having paid Ronspies a professional visit — or even an unprofessional one — despite the yakking of foodie friends who’ve long been suggesting I check the place out. And speaking of kicking someone: Yo, Prov! What? You couldn’t have suggested I don my Groucho glasses so I could tag along when you reviewed the place?

So, anybody else been? What do you think?