From chef Monica Dimas, the perfect late-night drinking snack.
Tortas Condesa is the latest from Monica Dimas, who earlier this year gave Capitol Hill barhoppers Neon Taco, the hangover go-to spot on Broadway. This go-around, she gives the torta, a Mexican street sandwich, top billing at her Olive Way walk-up window. (At Neon Taco, her pork torta is the best grub on the menu.)
The menu: The lineup of six tortas ($10), including one vegetarian option, is tailored for the bar crowd — meaty and salty, the bread toasted and buttered. They’re beer sponges. Or order some horchata ($4) and Mexican Coke ($3) to wash them down, and get a side of duros ($3) if you want a crunchy, potato-chiplike bite.
What to write home about: The pulled-pork sandwich with chunks and strands of pork and a generous heaping of tomatillo salsa, caramelized onions and cabbage for a meaty, cumin-scented bite. Just as rich is the fried-egg sandwich over a bed of chorizo made in-house, fattened up with avocado, smoked chili mayo and cotija cheese.
1510 E. Olive Way, Seattle
Hours: 4 p.m.-2 a.m. daily
What to skip: The braised beef molé sandwich was dry and too salty to finish, and seemed to be missing some ingredients — cotija, pickled onion, cilantro and mayo — advertised on the menu.
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The setting: Opened in October, Tortas Condesa is hard to miss. It’s a shoebox of a storefront, but it’s painted lemon-bright, and the smell of carnitas meets you before you even get up to the window to order. Just as when this space housed the Malaysia street-food stall Kedai Makan, many Tortas Condesa patrons take their sandwiches to the next-door dive bar, Montana, or they snack along the sidewalk after a night of barhopping.
Summing up: Four sandwiches totaled $40, enough to feed four, though more to satisfy the late-night munchies than a dinner.