Innovative takes on familiar dishes — with plenty of beer close by.

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Finding Bread and Circuses’ brick-and-mortar operation at The Woods takes some doing, especially if you’re unfamiliar with the industrial matrix of Sodo.

But it’s worth the effort to find this quirky kitchen, tucked inside the cavernous space that houses Two Beers Brewing and Seattle Cider. (Look for their black-and-white food truck outside.)

Bread and Circuses’ crew — seasoned veterans of Seattle’s food-truck scene — has created something akin to the garage band of kitchens, a place to jam out and experiment for fun and pleasure.

Bread and Circuses at The Woods

American

4660 Ohio Ave. S., Seattle

314-374-3081

eatbreadandcircuses.com/restaurant.html

Hours: 3-9 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 3-10 p.m. Friday, 1-10 p.m. Saturday, 1-6 p.m. Sunday

Etc.: Visa and MasterCard accepted; street parking; beer and cider; obstacles to access; open to humans over 21 years old and dogs of all ages

Prices: $-$$

The small menu, an homage to comfort food, ignited our curiosity and our appetites.

The menu’s playfulness and nostalgic overtones may be due in part to the age of chef Robert “Lil’ Rob” Killam. At 30, he’s young enough to remember powdered Parmesan (he grates his own now), and fondly re-creates his mother’s pepperoncini-brined eggs to put atop a truly inspired Brussels sprouts Caesar ($6).

The menu: Rotates depending on what’s in season, and the chef’s mood. On our visit, offers included duck fat popcorn dusted with yeast ($4); gnocchi tots ($6); house salad with provel cheese, mixed greens and Champagne vinaigrette ($5); Brussels sprouts Caesar salad; baked mac ’n’ beer cheese with bacon and jalapeño ($8); three-pepper chicken wings ($8); “potachoes,” nacho cheese, guacamole, sour cream and pico de gallo on potatoes; Circus burger with fries ($13); maple glazed sourdough doughnuts (three for $7). Dog owners can feed their canines chicken and rice ($4).

What to write home about: The gooey mac ’n’ beer cheese, the Caesar and the maple doughnuts, served hot with something called “bacon dust.”

The setting: A casual industrial space with ample seating.

Summing up: Duck fat popcorn, gnocchi tots, a Brussels sprouts Caesar, mac ’n’ beer cheese, a burger and fries and maple sourdough doughnuts came to $44 before tax and tip.