How to achieve the latest eyeliner looks that employ supercharged color.
Graphic eye makeup — electric blues, purples, greens — was all over the fall runways. The message: Color is not seasonal. Wear it liberally.
Yet such supercharged colors are still intimidating to many of us.
Here, the makeup artist Nick Barose, whose clients include Priyanka Chopra, Tessa Thompson and, most notably, Lupita Nyong’o, explains how to achieve some of the latest eyeliner looks that employ supercharged color.
Modern Diana Ross
Winged liner with painted-on lower “lashes” is a modern take on an iconic Diana Ross look. “Liquid liner is generally seen as retro,” Barose says. “But when you play with funky colors and texture, it gets a new life.”
Barose says that perfecting liquid liner takes practice and a steady hand. To make application easier, he suggests putting a mirror on a table and looking down into it so that the eye you’re working on can be open with the lid visible.
And draw on the winged outer tails first. “People draw the whole line and get to the tail, and they angle up too soon or late,” he says. “They end up with something asymmetrical. But if you decide beforehand, ‘I want it at this angle and this long’ and paint it in first on both sides, all you need to do is connect a line to that tail.”
If you still need help, try the VampStamp VaVaVoom Wing Stamp ($25 at thevampstamp.com). Paint the stamp with a liquid liner, then line it up with the outer corner of your eye and press. To finish, draw a line from the inner corner of the eye, connecting to the wing. You may need to clean up the stamp with a felt-tip liner or makeup remover.
The lower “lashes” are easier. Use the side of a brush and angle toward the outer corner of the eye.
To get this modern look, apply one shade from the inner corner to the middle of the lid. The second shade picks up where the first leaves off, extending just past the outer corner. The softness of a pencil liner allows for blending where colors meet, producing an ombré effect.
Bright contrasting shades are bold, but more subtle color combinations work as well. “For example, you could pair a rose with gold or bronze, shades that complement each other,” Barose says.
The Woosh Beauty Eyeliner Wheel ($29 at ulta.com) is helpful to anyone with a shaky hand. The tiny pizza-cutter-esque tool works best with a soft gel liner. Dip it and then roll it across your lash line.
Healthy pink eye
Pink is not a typical eye color, but it’s “quirky and having a beauty moment,” Barose says. He tapped a crayon, Lancôme Ombre Hypnôse Stylo Long-Lasting Eyeshadow Stick in Quartz Rose ($27 at department stores), along a model’s lash line and colored in sparse spots.
Think of eyeliner crayons as eye shadow in a stick. “You can’t make a sharp line but you get the intensity of a liner on a larger area, without having to build it, like you would with eye shadow,” Barose says.
Choosing a similar shade for the lips is a way to make the overall look harmonious but not overwhelming or matchy-matchy. The lip color he chose, Nars Satin Lip Pencil in Yu ($27 at Nordstrom), is a deeper shade than the shadow stick and more sophisticated-looking than a bright pink.