It's the 12-egg omelet at Beth's Cafe up on Aurora Avenue at Green Lake. It's legendary, according to T-shirts worn by the help.

A sunny yellow pillow perched on a bed of hashbrowns. Served up hot on a pizza platter is how it hits the table. With toast.

“There ya go. Need anything else?”

Nope.

It’s the 12-egg omelet at Beth’s Cafe up on Aurora Avenue at Green Lake. It’s legendary, according to T-shirts worn by the help.

“Shut-up! No, you shut-up!” hollers the cook to herself on a bustling Saturday morning just cuz it strikes her funny. “Shut-up! No, you shut-up!” She sets up eggs by the case, cracks ‘em by the dozen, painting the 24-hours-every-day-hot griddle yellow. A shovelful of ham on the grill, troweled hot onto the eggs, yammering with anybody nearby. Cookin’ and yammerin’. Pumping out mighty monster omelets, and sometimes its lesser cousin, the six-egger.

Here’s the secret: fold, fold, fold, flop. Serve.

Here’s the surprise: It’s fabulous.

It’s loud at Beth’s. And pierced and tattooed. Wardrobes in black. Floor-to-ceiling customer art. Done in crayon. Anybody and everybody welcome any time of day. That’s Beth’s. Been Beth’s since 1954.

But that omelet. It’s really something. Bacon, tomato, sour cream, Swiss, chili, salsa, cheddar, onions, ham, mushrooms, American cheese, various veggies. Any combination thereof.

Can weigh, oh, 10 pounds done right.

90 square inches of breakfast.