As I traveled south on Interstate 5, the postcard view stretched from Lake Union's kaleidoscope of boats and planes to the downtown Seattle...
As I traveled south on Interstate 5, the postcard view stretched from Lake Union’s kaleidoscope of boats and planes to the downtown Seattle skyline. But few passing motorists seemed to notice it as they tap-danced with their brakes through the morning’s commute. I, however, could savor the panorama because I had left freeway maneuvering to the bus driver.
Riding Metro’s Route 255 from Kirkland, I’d begun my “travel-by-bus vacation,” an experiment inspired by Rick Steves, Edmonds’ budget-travel guru, whose guidebooks extol using public transportation in European cities to save money, see the sights and meet locals along the way. It works there; it could work here.
After one trip, I was hooked. The journeys were as interesting as the destinations. Routes wound through neighborhoods I’d have never found on my own. It was continuous sightseeing.
Even paying full adult fare, the trips were incredibly cheap. I paid more for a double-tall latte at Snoqualmie Falls than I did for the round-trip fare to get there from my hometown of Kirkland. And not a single stop for $3.75-a-gallon gas.
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Aiming for interesting destinations reached via regularly scheduled transit routes, here’s where I went on my four-day Metro Transit holiday:
Ballard, Hiram M. Chittenden Locks, Nordic Heritage Museum, Golden Gardens beach park
• Route 17 from downtown Seattle: 35 minutes.
• Round-trip cost: $3.
The Hiram M. Chittenden (Ballard) Locks (www.seattle.gov/tour/locks.htm, 206-783-7059) link Puget Sound and Salmon Bay. Watching boats of all shapes and sizes being raised or lowered between the two is one of the best shows in town. Salmon navigating the fish ladder provide the second feature. Carl S. English Jr. Botanical Garden carpets the north shoreline of the locks with some 500 species and 1,500 varieties of plants. Exhibits at the Visitor Center tell the story of the Locks, the canal, the gardens and the fish. And it is free.
Also tell your driver you want the Nordic Heritage Museum, 3014 N.W. 67th St., a mile north of the Locks (www.nordicmuseum.org, 206-789-5707). The bus stop is less than two blocks from the museum. There’s an admission charge ($4-$6) to visit its galleries highlighting the Northwest’s logging and fishing industries and the five Nordic nations: Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway and Sweden.
Driver Bryan Oh was watching out for me. Calling out for “the lady who wanted the Golden Gardens,” he looked at me in his mirror. “Here’s where you want to get off,” he said of the Ballard Locks. “There are lots of gardens here and it’s easier than Golden Gardens. It’s a long way down [from the bus stop] to the park.” Ignoring his advice, I climbed the steep stairs down from 32nd Avenue Northwest to Golden Gardens beach park and back — we shared a laugh when, out of breath, I reboarded his bus. It was a hike. I should have taken his advice.
The eclectic mix of shops and eateries along Ballard’s Northwest Market Street and historical Ballard Avenue is a short bus ride from the Locks, museum and Golden Gardens. Frequent buses make it a snap to travel between the locations (transfers are good for a couple of hours).
From Route 17 you’ll see: Lake Union; Gas Works Park; Aurora, Fremont and Ballard bridges; Seattle Pacific University; Fishermen’s Terminal and the heart of Ballard. The bus stops across the street from the Locks’ main entrance, about two blocks from the Nordic Heritage Museum, and less than a block from the long stairway to Golden Gardens Park. (Route 46 goes directly to Golden Gardens, but runs only during peak commute hours on weekday mornings and evenings. More midday runs are coming this fall, but still no weekend service.)
Bus 17 stops high above the 87.8-acre Golden Gardens beach park. To reach it you’ll descend a steep stairway and sloping dirt path — and climb back up to get home. The views won’t be the only thing leaving you breathless. (Ballard Locks makes a nice alternative.)
Snoqualmie Falls escape
Snoqualmie Falls, Snoqualmie, North Bend Outlet Stores
• Route 271, Bellevue Transit Center to Issaquah Park and Ride: 44 minutes. (Other routes go there, too.)
• Route 209, Issaquah Park and Ride to Snoqualmie Falls: 35 minutes.
• Round-trip cost: $3, no charge to view the falls.
Bundled against a spring wind, we stood shoulder-to-shoulder on the Snoqualmie Falls (www.snoqualmiefalls.com) observation deck mesmerized by the force of the 270-foot waterfall, its deafening rumble drowning conversations. With umbrellas unfurled, a few braved the weather to explore the sprawling grounds. The gift shop — usually a haven for souvenir seekers and those wanting snacks — was closed for inventory; I sought shelter in the nearby historic Salish Lodge and Spa (www.SalishLodge.com). After I explored the gift shop, The Attic Bistro, an inviting upstairs nook overlooking the falls, was a perfect spot to sip a latte. Lunch and other libations were available.
Route 209 will also take you to the town of Snoqualmie and the Northwest Railway Museum (www.trainmuseum.org). From the museum, the Snoqualmie Valley Railroad offers 75-minute, five-mile runs on its antique coaches through the Upper Snoqualmie Valley ($7-$10, weekends through October). You can also reach the Factory Stores at North Bend (425-888-4505) on Route 209.
Construction of a new transit center and parking garage at the Issaquah Park and Ride hasn’t affected bus service. No restrooms. On 209, tell your driver your intended destination; this route is sightseeing heaven, you could miss your stop.
From Route 209 you’ll see: Issaquah’s Gilman Village, its historic downtown, and the towns of Preston, Fall City and Snoqualmie.
Route 209 runs weekdays and Saturdays only; no service on Sundays. If you want to ride the trains, plan a Saturday trip.
Puget Sound, Vashon Island
• Route 54 bus from downtown Seattle to Fauntleroy ferry: 30 minutes. (Other routes go there, too.)
• Washington State Ferries crossing: 20 minutes.
• Route 118 from Vashon ferry to downtown Vashon commercial area: 20 minutes.
• Cost: $3 round-trip bus and $4.30 round-trip walk-on ferry ticket.
You’ll feel much farther from West Seattle than a 20-minute ferry ride when you arrive on this little island, only 13 miles long and 8 miles at its widest. Sprinkled with art galleries, shops, restaurants, B&Bs and beautiful beaches, it’s easy to see why it’s such a popular getaway.
It was the most difficult of my bus journeys to accomplish, largely due to limited midday service. There’s a two-hour dead zone between the 10:40 a.m. (weekday) bus and the 12:40 p.m. bus from the Vashon ferry terminal to the commercial district and points south, making for a long wait at the tiny island terminal if you miss the first (as we did) or come much before the second.
Vashon resident Ralph Hunzicker waited with us at the Vashon terminal for Bus 118 to take him home. He’d returned from Japan and ridden a bus from Sea-Tac to the ferry. He had used the bus/ferry combination before to get to the airport and says it can’t be beat for convenience and price. By catching the later bus, a friend and I lunched at The Hardware Store Restaurant (www.thsrestaurant.com, 206-463-1800), footsteps from the bus stop in the heart of town (fellow passengers recommended it) and had time to hop the southbound bus and continue our sightseeing. We traveled almost the full length of the island before riding back to catch the 3:25 p.m. Fauntleroy-bound ferry.
Walk-on ferry passengers disembark before cars leave the ferry. If you don’t, you may well miss the bus. If you see a bus aboard the ferry, you can board it during the crossing. Vashon’s main commercial area is a 10- to 15-minute drive from the island dock — too far to walk. There’s a latte stand and restaurant near the ferry terminal, vending machines in it.
You can flag down the bus along the routes on the island — you need not be at a marked stop.
Limited midday schedule, no bus service on Sundays.
West Seattle, Alki Beach
• Route 56, downtown Seattle to Alki: 28 minutes.
• Cost: $3 round-trip
The sweeping views over Elliott Bay and the Seattle waterfront from the Route 56 bus were so striking that we wondered why we’d never before taken a bus to Alki Beach Park. We rode to the last stop, right at the Alki Bakery (2738 Alki Ave. S.W., 206-935-1352). Resisting the pastries’ call, we crossed the street, entering the park that stretches along Puget Sound for more than two miles from Alki Point to Duwamish Head; the place where the first white settlers arrived in Seattle in 1851.
We strolled along the wide, level pathway past picnic areas, stopping to watch artists at work in the bathhouse-turned-art studio. A waterfront table and a hearty lunch welcomed us to the Alki Cafe (2726 Alki Ave. S.W., 206-935-0616), footsteps from the bus stop and park.
We caught Route 56 at First Avenue and Pine Street downtown, a block from Pike Place Market. We were able to include an unplanned visit to the Market before catching the bus at Westlake Center back to Kirkland.
From Bus 56 you’ll see: Pioneer Square, Qwest and Safeco fields, the Port of Seattle, Elliott Bay and the Seattle skyline. Numerous restaurants line Alki Avenue Southwest.
This is a popular route in summer months and the bus can be crowded.
Kirkland-based freelancer Jackie Smith is a regular contributor to NWWeekend.