Highlights from the second-ever men’s New York Fashion Week from Public School, Tommy Hilfiger and more.
Highlights from the second-ever men’s New York Fashion Week, which ran from Feb. 1–4.
February is a huge month for the Public School design duo of Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow. They’re showing their women’s wear collection at New York Fashion Week following men’s week, and they’re putting out their second collection as creative directors for DKNY following Donna Karan’s departure.
For their men’s show Tuesday, there were hats — beautiful, wide-brimmed hats in beige and black with circles of black fringe around brim tops.
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“It’s something we’ve always been known to do, and it’s an elevated part of it every season,” Osborne says. “The concept of the season is the loner and, funny enough, ‘The Man Who Fell to Earth,’ the David Bowie movie, even prior to him passing. It’s based on this loner and this outsider that we always feel like we are, today, in our lives.”
Some looks included triangle prints akin to the symbol for water, in homage to the search for water by Bowie’s loner character in the film.
“His impact on fashion goes without saying,” Chow says of Bowie, who died Jan. 10 at age 69 after battling cancer.
Bowie likely would have been pleased with Public School’s quilted camo jumpsuits worn with wide belts and its skinny pants hemmed above the ankle. Other pants came in nylon, including green joggers. The two designers put out some delicate tweed in long coats and short jackets.
John Varvatos had some freaky fun Tuesday, posing the question “Rock is Dead?” The theme anchored a multimedia menswear show featuring live models in animal masks with old-school rock blaring in a narrow, smoky downtown space.
The idea, he says, is to celebrate “doing something different and walking to your own beat.”
Varvatos has been inspired by the rock scene for decades, opening a retail store inside the closed legendary club CBGB on Bowery. He’s still putting out luxury fashion but wanted to toy with disillusionment in a theatrical show that, in his words, asks: “Where are the rebels today? Is it just Miley Cyrus? Are we going to put up with the clowns that are running for president? Who’s stepping up? Who’s letting their voice be heard?”
Will preppy ever go out of style? Not if Tommy Hilfiger can help it.
But guardians of prep like Hilfiger most definitely need to adapt, he said Wednesday as he presented his Hilfiger Edition line aimed at “feeling necessary, youthful and ready for right now,” according to the show’s notes.
These are wardrobe building blocks for men, American classics that Hilfiger has been putting out for 30 years, but with some notable twists aimed at the younger set.
“These guys want preppy but they want preppy in a new way, and we’re giving it to them a little bit oversized again,” Hilfiger said in an interview ahead of his presentation on the third day of New York Fashion Week: Men’s. “We were very slim for quite a few years but now we’re doing it a little bit more oversized. Better fabrications, more interesting detail and a real nod to military and functional details.”
Many of the trousers were slouchy, though some suits were narrow and tightly tailored. A relaxed pajama-style suit came in a glen plaid of red and blue with nautical braided trim and a drawstring waist. One pair of red trousers had blue tuxedo striping on outer seams and a long coat in navy blue was fitted with gold buttons.
The global brand put visible stitching along some wider hems on pants and rolled out roomy and functional outerwear in wool with nylon or canvas detailing. There was a rugby shirt in a playful patchwork and luxe cashmere coats in camel, elevating the fall collection.
Hilfiger focused a lot on nautical and military vibes.
“We love gold bullion buttons,” he says. “We still have chinos, oxfords, bomber jackets, blazers, but done in new ways.”