A recipe is revised and topped with a chocolate glaze and praline crunch.

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Chocolate-cake perfection once was mine. Then, I lost the recipe.

Eventually, I came across an almost-perfect replacement. Still, I looked, longed, lamented. Some day, I thought, I’d stumble on the right crumple and again achieve perfection.

I dropped the search in favor of research. I recalibrated the cacao, vanilla and flour. I added a bourbon punch and sprinkled on a praline crunch. The new cake, like the old, remains dark and dense, but it edges one light step closer to perfection.

REVISED CHOCOLATE CAKE

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Makes 12 servings

10 ounces bittersweet chocolate (60 percent cacao)

2 ounces milk chocolate

11 tablespoons unsalted butter

¾ cup sugar

5 eggs, separated

Seeds scraped from 1 vanilla bean

½ cup sifted flour

Chocolate glaze, see recipe

Praline crumble, see recipe

1. Zap or heat both types of chocolate, the butter and ½ cup sugar.

2. Whisk in egg yolks and vanilla seeds. Whisk in flour.

3. Beat egg whites in a separate bowl with remaining ¼ cup sugar to glossy peaks.

4. Stir one-third of the egg whites into the chocolate batter. Gently and thoroughly fold in remaining whites.

5. Pour batter into a 9-inch springform pan. Slide into a 350-degree oven and bake until the cake is springy, about 32 minutes. Cool completely. Release cake and invert onto a 9-inch cardboard or cake-pan round.

6. Set cake (on its round) on a wire rack. Set rack over a rimmed baking sheet, to catch drips. Pour all the warm glaze into a big puddle on top. With an offset spatula, nudge glaze toward the edges and let it drip down the sides. Sprinkle with praline. Let set at least 20 minutes.

Chocolate glaze: Chop 4 ounces semisweet chocolate and tumble into a medium bowl. Heat ½ cup heavy cream to boiling; pour cream over chocolate. Let rest five minutes. Gently stir smooth. Stir in 1 tablespoon pecan bourbon, optional.

Praline crumble: Stir 6 tablespoons sugar, ¼ teaspoon salt and 2 tablespoons water together in medium saucepan. Bring to a boil. Let bubble without stirring until syrup starts to color, three minutes. Reduce heat to medium; stir to a light brown, one minute. Stir in 1 cup toasted pecans. Scrape nuts onto a parchment-lined baking sheet. Let cool. Slide candied nuts into the food processor; pulse to a rubble.

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