From ceviche to porterhouse, curry to pork ribs, Providence Cicero ranks her best dining-out moments of the year.

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The Seattle Times restaurant critic ranks 25 unforgettable moments at the table from 2015.

1. At Salare, Edouardo Jordan stuffed fragile squash blossoms with smoked-salmon rillettes. He sauced the deep-fried flowers with caper rémoulade and tucked a pickled and fried baby squash next to them. Back in August, I wrote it just might be the dish of the year, and nothing topped it.

2404 N.E. 65th St., Seattle; 206-556-2192, salarerestaurant.com

 

2. Joe Ritchie’s glorious geoduck crudo at Goldfinch Tavern was a close second. The raw, shaved shellfish formed a wreath ornamented with English cucumber, celery and a dusting of ground pink peppercorn.

The geoduck crudo, with cucumber, celery leaf and pink peppercorn at Goldfinch Tavern in the Four Seasons Hotel in Seattle. (Lindsey Wasson/The Seattle Times)
The geoduck crudo, with cucumber, celery leaf and pink peppercorn at Goldfinch Tavern in the Four Seasons Hotel in Seattle. The Ethan Stowell restaurant, named for Washington’s state bird, is led by Chef Joe Ritchie, formerly of Mkt. (Lindsey Wasson/The Seattle Times)

99 Union St., Seattle; 206-749-7070, goldfinchtavern.com

 

3. At Single Shot, James Sherrill laced a luxurious black-rice porridge with uni and topped it with pork belly and mussels.

611 Summit Ave. E., Seattle; 206-420-2238, singleshotseattle.com

 

4. Eric Johnson’s pork ribs at Stateside, with their fiery chili-cumin crust, brought me to tears — of agony and delight.

300 E. Pike St., Seattle; 206-557-7273, statesideseattle.com

 

5. At Naka, Shota Nakajima’s wagyu beef katsu, cooked rare and encased in a pebbled breading, offered an elegant Japanese take on chicken-fried steak.

1449 E. Pine St., Seattle; 206-294-5230; nakaseattle.com

 

6. Vadouvan curry and cumin oil made John Sundstrom’s cauliflower soup at Lark unexpectedly exotic.

952 E. Seneca St., Seattle; 206-323-5275, larkseattle.com

 

7. Omega Ouzeri’s octopodi elegantly extended one charred leg across a chile-sparked chicory salad studded with potatoes and more octopus.

1529 14th Ave., Seattle; 206-257-4515, omegaouzeri.com

 

Pajeon (green-onion pancake), with octopus, mussels, prawns, kimchi, zucchini and sweet potato at Girin in Seattle. (green-onion pancake), with octopus, mussels, prawns, kimchi, zucchini and sweet potato at Girin in Seattle.  (John Lok/The Seattle Times)
Pajeon (green-onion pancake), with octopus, mussels, prawns, kimchi, zucchini and sweet potato at Girin in Seattle. (John Lok/The Seattle Times)

8. Brandon Kirksey’s seafood-packed panjeon at Girin set a new standard for green-onion pancakes everywhere.

501 Stadium Place, Seattle; 206-257-4259, girinseattle.com

 

9. Brian Clevenger’s pacheri with braised pork, peas and fresh mint stood out among several winning pasta dishes at Vendemmia.

1126 34th Ave., Seattle; 206-466-2533, vendemmiaseattle.com

 

Best of 2015

Critic picks: Movies | Books | Albums | Concerts

Food & Drink: Restaurants | Cocktails | Dishes

Visuals: Pictures | Videos | Interactives

 

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10. At The Carlile Room, Dezi Bonow’s potent “bird jus” bathed Northwest chanterelles in a tour-de-force ensemble that included roasted apple aioli, pickled green pear, morbier cheese and a fried egg.

820 Pine St., Seattle; 206-946-9720, thecarlile.com

 

11. John Sundstrom’s criollo octopus at Bitter/Raw bristled with lime and aji Amarillo.

952 E. Seneca St., Seattle; 206-323-5275, larkseattle.com

 

12. Brock Johnson gave beef tartare a Mediterranean makeover at The Dahlia Lounge, seasoning the raw meat with ras el hanout and Aleppo pepper and serving it with creamy Greek yogurt and cucumber.

2001 Fourth Ave., Seattle; 206-682-4142, tomdouglas.com

 

13. Lime and chilies invigorated Alex Barkley’s rockfish and sweet potato ceviche cradled in fresh avocado at Manolin.

3621 Stone Way N., Seattle; 206-294-3331, manolinseattle.com

 

14. At Tray Kitchen, Heong Soon Park layered smoked trout mousse, avocado chunks and chile sauce in a small glass jar to be scooped out with fingerling potato chips.

4012 Leary Way N.W., Seattle; 206-557-7059, traykitchen.com

 

Naka chef/owner Shota Nakajima interprets the traditional, seasonal kaiseki-style cooking of Japan in three multicourse tasting menus. (Ellen M. Banner/The Seattle Times)
Naka chef/owner Shota Nakajima interprets the traditional, seasonal kaiseki-style cooking of Japan in three multicourse tasting menus. One item on the bar menu is seafood tartare, seafood tossed in yuzu aioli with vegetable chips. (Ellen M. Banner/The Seattle Times)

15. Taro chips came with Naka’s delicate seafood tartare, a blend of madai, tuna, kampachi and soy-cured salmon roe, bound with chive-flecked yuzu aioli.

1449 E. Pine St., Seattle; 206-294-5230; nakaseattle.com

 

16. Nue’s Syrian salad, dressed with lime and pomegranate syrup, tossed kale with carrots, dates, feta and toasted almonds, making those ubiquitous greens taste like you’ve never had them before.

1519 14th Ave., Seattle; 206-257-0312, nueseattle.com

 

The rockfish ceviche at Manolin features avocado, sweet potato, lime and chili. (Dean Rutz/The Seattle Times)
The rockfish ceviche at Manolin features avocado, sweet potato, lime and chili. (Dean Rutz/The Seattle Times)

17. Manolin’s beet, carrot and apple slaw with chervil, dill and fennel pollen provided welcome respite from winter’s gray gloom.

3621 Stone Way N., Seattle; 206-294-3331, manolinseattle.com

 

18. Salted Sea’s lime-dressed sea scallop crudo encapsulated summer with diced cantaloupe, corn kernels, basil and mint.

4915 Rainier Ave. S., Seattle; 206-858-6328, saltedseaseattle.com

 

19. In a marvel of food engineering, Stateside’s duck roll wrapped an herb-filled fresh roll around a crisp, meat-filled fried one.

300 E. Pike St., Seattle; 206-557-7273, statesideseattle.com

 

20. Damn the Weather’s chicken-fat fries were divine drinking companions.

116 First Ave. S., Seattle; no phone, damntheweather.com

 

21. Broccoli seldom makes anyone’s list of best bites, but Cantina Lena’s charred broccoli and bitter radicchio salad, studded with corn nuts and smoked cotija cheese, was insanely good.

2105 Fifth Ave., Seattle; 206-519-5723, cantinalena.com

 

22. Shaker + Spear’s salmon pastrami with pickled mustard seed, cabbage and cilantro slaw on grilled Wild Wheat sourdough is an archetypal Seattle sandwich.

2000 Second Ave., Seattle; 206-826-1700, shakerandspear.com

 

23. Kim Mahar’s warm malasada doughnuts at Super Six, liberally drizzled with lilikoi caramel sauce, are the stuff of sweet dreams.

3714 S. Hudson St., Seattle; 206-420-1201, supersixseattle.com

 

24. Chavez turned churros into ice-cream sandwiches seductively sauced with leche de cajata — caramelized goat’s milk.

1734 12th Ave., Seattle; 206- 695-2588, chavezseattle.com

 

25. The porterhouse was perfection at The Metropolitan Grill, but the meal’s best moment involved the aroma of apples, butter, brown sugar and rum, flambéed tableside by a tuxedoed maître d’ for the hot apple-pie dessert.

820 Second Ave., Seattle; 206-624-3287, themetropolitangrill.com