Given how many people are running, walking and rowing around Green Lake on a given morning, the dearth of good breakfast joints nearby is surprising, and lamentable. One new spot trying to fill the gap is Dish Cafe, a satellite of the popular restaurant of the same name in Ballard.

Located on the convenient corner of Latona and 65th Street Northeast, opposite the Latona Pub, in a storefront previously occupied by Irwin’s Neighborhood Bakery and Cafe, this cozy, light-filled establishment is inviting on either a sunny or dreary day, with its large windows, decorative stone fireplace, counter with blue-topped stools and cheerful ethnic art on the wall.

We love that breakfast is served until closing, and that you can relax and linger here with a friend or by your lonesome. (Do note that, like most good brunch places, this one is busiest on weekend mid-mornings.)

The menu: A solid assortment of cooked-to-order breakfast items favoring pancakes ($6-$7), and three-egg omelets and scrambles ($9.25), and well-prepared, comfort-food lunch fare — from French dip and BLT sandwiches (both $8.95, with a side), to Greek and spinach salads ($8.95) and savory homemade soups ($3.95/cup, $4.95/bowl).

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What to write home about: A recent special of banana bread French toast smothered in marionberry sauce was luscious ($8.95). The huevos verdes dish is a big, savory mound of tortillas, grilled red potatoes, black beans, shaved ham, eggs and tomatillo sauce, enough to stuff two ($10.25). A lighter lunch of creamy tomato soup and a buttery grilled-cheese sandwich ($7.25) hit the spot.

What to skip: The scones are doughy and bland ($1.95/each).

The setting: Bustling yet airy, artsy and bright, with counter and table seating and friendly waitstaff at hand.

Summing up: A full order of huevos verdes ($10.25), a French toast special ($8.95), a small fresh orange juice ($2.75) and a cup of coffee ($2) came to $23.95 before tax and tip, and fed two people amply.

Misha Berson: mberson@seattletimes.com