Seattle's Thai of Wedgwood offers inviting fare. Its varied roster includes appetizers, salads, soups, noodle dishes, curries and house specialties.

The storefront of Thai of Wedgwood is misleadingly small. Step beyond the takeout waiting area and you’ll find a spacious dining room where the service is brisk and cheerful, the atmosphere pleasantly relaxed and the fare inviting.

The menu: Thai of Wedgwood’s varied roster includes appetizers, salads, soups, noodle dishes, curries and house specialties. Prices range from $5.75 to $12.50. A limited beer-and-wine menu is available, with beer running about $4, glasses of wine at $5.50-$6, and bottles of wine at $19-$21.

What to write home about: The Shu-She-Salmon, one of the most expensive items on the menu at $10.50, is worth shouting about. The salmon is served not as a fillet but in succulent, bite-size chunks sautéed in a rich red-curry/coconut-milk sauce garnished with sweet basil. We ordered it medium hot (three stars out of five) and that was just right — nicely spicy, but not so strong that it overwhelmed the salmon flavor.

The Phad Thai, which we had with pork ($8.50), is light, flavorful and accented with crunchy bean sprouts and carrot slivers.

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The Rama Chicken ($8.50), served over stir-fried spinach and topped with peanut sauce, had thin slices of chicken and carrot. Again, it was done with a light touch, with the peanut sauce imparting flavor but not bullying the dish.

The appetizer menu had some items I’ll definitely try next time: Tod-Mun pla (“deep-fried fishcakes with red curry, green beans, and lime leaves”) and the Moo Ping (“thinly sliced pork marinated with garlic”). We had the Wedgwood Spring Rolls ($6.95), which my companion described as the spring-roll equivalent of a Dagwood sandwich.

Crunchy on the outside, the two sizable rolls were packed with a hot little stew of bamboo shoots, chicken, dried shrimp, green onions and black pepper. They could have been a meal in themselves.

What to skip: The only disappointment was the brown rice, which was on the dry side.

The setting: The dining area is roomy, which gives patrons a bit of privacy.

Summing up: The bill for three entrees and one appetizer, plus rice, came to $49.30 with tip.

Michael Upchurch: