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I first discovered Fu Lin about a decade ago before the “ramen hype” hit town, and it has remained one of our go-to places.

At Fu Lin, the soup stock comes in three choices: miso (soybean), shoyu (soy sauce) and tonkotsu (stewed pork bones) — served with bamboo shoots, seaweed kelp and bean sprouts.

Get past the basics and go the distance by ordering your ramen with barbecue pork (char siu), seafood and corn along with a soft-boiled egg. Kick it up by ordering the Sichuan spicy hot broth soup noodle. (Note: It’s closed through Jan. 7.)

The menu: There are 12 varieties of ramen ($6.50-$8.50). Be sure to order a side of pan-fried pork pot stickers with crispy edges or fried rice for $3 extra.

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They have 19 choices of appetizers ($3-$6.50), including deep-fried chicken wings ($6.50), pork wonton in hot sauce ($5) and boiled dumplings ($5). Order a plate of the small-sized, steamed juicy pork buns ($3.50) like those at that high-end Eastside dumpling house with superlong lines.

The extensive menu offers a wide variety of Cantonese, Taiwanese and Japanese dishes. They include seafood, beef, pork, poultry or vegetable. Each is prepared on a sizzling wok that adds a nice sear and flavor to the dishes.

What to write home about: The scallion pancake ($3), which resembles a pan-fried flatbread with layers of green onions, is fresh, hot and crispy. The steamed juicy pork buns were a hit, and came filled with hot broth.

One of our favorites is the soy sauce char siu ramen ($7) with a lightly soy-sauce-based soup stock. The ramen noodles are slightly firm, not overly cooked and soggy.

The setting: 17 tables are situated in this small, split-level eatery.

Summing up: The four-piece steamed juicy pork buns ($3.50), scallion pancake ($3), Mongolian beef ($7.95), soy sauce char siu ramen ($7), miso char siu ramen ($7), house special stir fried noodles ($7.50) and a side of pot stickers ($3) came to $42.66 with tax.

Mark Yuasa:

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