4 appetizer servings

Salt and black pepper

½ pound sugar snap peas, trimmed

1 teaspoon minced green garlic or ½ teaspoon minced regular garlic

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2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, more for drizzling

4 ounces pea shoots, ends trimmed, or use baby arugula or microgreens

10 ounces ripe, runny Camembert (or another washed-rind cheese such as Époisses or vacherin)

1 tablespoon finely chopped chervil or chives

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Have ready a bowl of well-salted ice water. Drop peas into boiling water and cook until crisp-tender, about a minute; use a slotted spoon to transfer peas to ice water to cool completely. Drain well and pat dry with a towel.

2. In a small bowl, whisk together garlic and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper. Whisk in oil. Add pea shoots or arugula and toss to coat.

3. Scoop out runny cheese from inside rind and spoon onto four small plates, smoothing the cheese to cover most of the plate. Scatter snap peas on top of cheese. Drizzle with olive oil. Mound greens over peas. Sprinkle with chervil or chives and serve.

— Melissa Clark, The New York Times