Makes about a fourth cup, enough for 6 steaks

2 cloves garlic, unpeeled

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper

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1 teaspoon dried parsley leaves

1 teaspoon smoked ground paprika

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 teaspoon brown sugar

1. Heat a small heavy dry skillet over medium. Toss in garlic and cook, shaking skillet now and then, until garlic is blackened in spots and soft, about 10 minutes. Set garlic aside to cool.

2. Measure salt into a mortar (or small electric spice grinder). Peel garlic and mash into salt. Mash in remaining ingredients.

3. Rub about 1 teaspoon on each side of a steak during the last few seconds of grilling. Also good on pork and chicken.

— Leah Eskin, The Chicago Tribune