Serves 4

3 cup extra-virgin olive oil, more as needed

12 anchovies, chopped

6 garlic cloves, minced

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¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 cup good dried breadcrumbs

Black pepper and kosher salt, as needed

1 pound spaghetti

2 egg yolks

1 tablespoon Asian fish sauce (optional)

1 teaspoon hot sauce, such as Tabasco, or to taste

½ cup roughly chopped parsley

Lemon wedges, for serving

1. In a medium skillet over medium-high heat, warm oil. Add anchovies, garlic and red-pepper flakes; cook until fragrant, one minute. Stir in breadcrumbs and cook until golden, two to three minutes. Season liberally with black pepper, and a little salt if needed.

2. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add spaghetti and cook according to package instructions; drain well, reserving some of the pasta water (about ½ cup is plenty).

3. In a large, preferably warmed bowl, stir together egg yolks, fish sauce, hot sauce and 2 tablespoons pasta water. Add hot pasta and toss well, adding more pasta water if the mixture looks dry or unevenly yellow. You want the yolk to evenly coat the pasta but you don’t want it to be soupy. Add breadcrumb mixture and parsley and toss well. Season with plenty of black pepper, and salt to taste. Drizzle pasta with more oil just before serving and serve with lemon wedges.

— Melissa Clark, The New York Times