Serves 12 as an appetizer

- 2/3 cup mascarpone cheese

- 2 tablespoons capers, rinsed and drained

- 2 tablespoons minced fresh chives

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- 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

- 12 ounces smoked salmon, cut into 24 thin slices, 2 to 3 inches on the short side (see Note)

- 48 small, tender arugula leaves

1. Mix mascarpone with 1 tablespoon capers, 1 tablespoon chives and the lemon juice in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate up to 24 hours in advance.)

2. In batches, lay the salmon out on a cutting board with one short side facing you and with plenty of space above and below each slice.

3. Put a spoonful of the mascarpone mixture on the narrow end of a slice. Lay 2 arugula leaves, fanned slightly, across the mascarpone so that the leaves extend several inches from one end of the roll. Roll up the salmon slice and stand it upright, leaves pointed up, on a serving platter. (If the rolls won’t stand upright, arrange them on their sides on the platter.) Repeat with remaining slices. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve. (The rolls can be prepared up to 3 hours in advance. If made too far ahead, the arugula leaves will wilt.) Before serving, sprinkle with remaining capers and chives.

Note: It’s best not to buy salmon that is prepackaged, as the slices might not be whole. Have the fish seller choose them at the counter.

From “The 150 Best American Recipes” compiled by Fran McCullough & Molly Stevens; original recipe from “In the Hands of a Chef” by Jody Adams and Ken Rivard