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Makes six to eight servings

12 ounces skinned salmon fillets, pin bones removed

3 cups fish stock (may substitute 2 cups clam juice plus 1 cup water or no-salt-added chicken broth)

¼ cup dry white wine

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2 cups heavy cream

2 medium Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice (about 2 cups; may substitute other potatoes that are waxy)

2 ounces pancetta, diced

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter

2 medium shallots, minced (about ¼ cup)

12 medium button mushrooms, stemmed and cut into quarters (about 2 cups)

1 teaspoon sea salt, or more as needed

½ teaspoon fresh cracked white pepper, or more as needed

1 medium leek, white part only, minced

2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

1. Cut the salmon into 1-inch cubes; wrap them tightly and refrigerate until ready to use.

2. Combine the fish stock and wine in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, then cook until reduced by a third, 15 to 20 minutes.

3. Add the heavy cream and potatoes to the saucepan; once the liquid returns to a boil, reduce the heat to medium or medium-low, so it’s barely bubbling, and cook five minutes. The potatoes should be just tender.

4. Line a plate with a few layers of paper towels. Cook the pancetta in a medium skillet over medium-high heat until it has crisped and browned, then transfer it to the paper towel-lined plate to drain.

5. Add 1 tablespoon of the butter to the same skillet, along with half the shallots and all of the mushrooms, stirring until the butter has melted. Cook until the moisture released by the mushrooms has evaporated and they have browned. Scrape the mushroom-shallot mixture into the saucepan. Season with the salt and pepper.

6. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in the same skillet over medium heat. Add the leek and the remaining shallots, stirring to coat. Cook, stirring once or twice, until the vegetables have softened, then add them to the saucepan along with the pancetta and the chilled cubes of salmon, stirring gently to incorporate.

7. Once the liquid starts to bubble, cook for one minute, then remove the saucepan from the heat. The salmon should be just cooked through. Taste, adjust the seasoning as needed and whisk in the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter, making sure it has been thoroughly incorporated.

8. Just before serving, stir in the dill. Divide among individual bowls. Serve warm.

Adapted by The Washington Post from chef Bob Kinkead of Ancora in Washington, D.C.

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