Serves six

1 large head (2 pounds) cauliflower (outer leaves removed), broken into 1½-inch florets

3 tablespoons canola oil

½ teaspoon kosher salt

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½ cup heavy cream

1 small clove garlic, minced

½ cup grated Gruyère cheese

½ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Pinch freshly grated nutmeg

1. Position oven racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven; preheat to 375 degrees. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. Toss the cauliflower florets, oil and salt in a mixing bowl to coat. Spread the florets on the baking sheet, flat edges down. (Wipe out the bowl; you’ll use it again.) Bake on the lower rack for 20 minutes, then turn the oven on broil. Once it’s preheated, transfer the cauliflower to the top rack and broil for seven to 10 minutes, until nicely browned and tender. Keep the broiler on.

3. Transfer the florets to the same bowl you first used. Add the cream, garlic, Gruyère cheese, half of the Parmigiano-Reggiano and all the pepper and nutmeg. Stir to incorporate, then spoon the cauliflower into a large gratin dish. Sprinkle with the remaining Parmigiano-Reggiano and return to the broiler for five minutes, until golden brown and bubbly.

4. Serve hot.

Nutritional information per serving: 240 calories, 20 g fat, 8 g saturated fat, 45 mg cholesterol, 370 mg sodium, 9 g carbohydrates, 4 g dietary fiber, 4 g sugar, 9 g protein.

Adapted by The Washington Post from Washington food writer David Hagedorn, co-author with chef Cathal Armstrong of “My Irish Table: Recipes From the Homeland and Restaurant Eve” (Ten Speed Press, March 2014).