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Serves 8 to 10

½ pound smoky bacon, diced

1 large onion, peeled and diced

2 celery stalks, diced

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2 medium carrots, peeled and diced

4 garlic cloves, minced

2 large sprigs rosemary

1 pound dried pinto beans, soaked overnight

1 tablespoon coarse kosher salt, more to taste

2 cups dry red wine

Extra-virgin olive oil, for serving (optional)

Coarsely grated Parmesan, for serving (optional)

Coarsely ground black pepper or red pepper flakes, for serving (optional)

1. In the bottom of a large pot over medium-high heat, brown bacon until golden, about five minutes. Stir in onion, celery, carrots, garlic and rosemary. Cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are tender, five to seven minutes.

2. Drain beans and add to pot along with 1 tablespoon salt. Pour in enough water to just cover the beans (about seven to eight cups). Bring liquid to a boil; reduce heat and simmer gently until beans are just tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour.

3. Meanwhile, in a small pot over medium heat, simmer wine until it is reduced to 2/3 cup, 20 to 30 minutes.

4. Remove rosemary branches from bean pot and discard them. Pour wine into beans and bring to a simmer. Cook for 10 to 20 minutes longer to meld flavors and thicken broth to taste. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with Parmesan, if desired; add more salt and black or red pepper to taste.

From Melissa Clark, The New York Times

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