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Serves six to eight

The marinade

¼ cup lime juice, about 2 limes

¼ cup fish sauce

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2 tablespoons rice vinegar

1 teaspoon finely grated ginger

1 teaspoon finely grated garlic

2 small to medium serrano peppers, thinly sliced, with seeds

2 pounds skirt steak

The sauce

1 cup mayonnaise

2 teaspoons fish sauce

¾ teaspoon sriracha + more, to taste

½ teaspoon lime juice

½ teaspoon finely grated garlic

Black pepper, optional

To finish

Canola oil, as needed

Black pepper, optional

Flour tortillas

Finely shredded napa cabbage

Sliced scallions

Cilantro sprigs

Toasted sesame seeds, optional

1. For the marinade and meat: Combine the lime juice, fish sauce, rice vinegar, ginger, garlic and serrano peppers in a small bowl.

2. Trim the steak, removing any silver skin, and cut the meat into manageable sections about 4 inches wide. Place the steak into a large, heavy duty zip-top bag and pour the marinade over. Remove the air from the bag and seal; gently massage the meat so the marinade contacts all the surfaces and the chilies are evenly distributed. Set aside at room temperature to marinate about one hour, massaging again and turning at least once.

3. For the sauce: Meanwhile, combine all the sauce ingredients and black pepper, if using; set aside. The sauce can be made ahead and refrigerated.

4. To cook and serve: Preheat the grill to medium-high, then clean and oil it. Remove the meat from the marinade and pat dry; discard the marinade. Season meat with a little black pepper, if using, then grill to desired doneness, four to six minutes per side for medium-rare. Remove from the grill, loosely tent with foil, and let rest for five to 10 minutes. Slice the meat thinly across the grain.

5. Serve with flour tortillas, cabbage, scallions, cilantro and some of the sauce. Sprinkle with sesame seeds, if desired.

Lynne Char Bennett, San Francisco Chronicle

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