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Serves eight

3 pounds brisket, fat trimmed, cut into 1-inch cubes

1½ tablespoons coarse kosher salt, more as needed

1½ teaspoons black pepper, more as needed

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3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, more as needed

3 leeks, thinly sliced

2 celery stalks, diced

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

3 thyme sprigs

2 bay leaves

2 carrots, peeled and cut into ½-inch chunks

2 parsnips, peeled and cut into ½-inch chunks

2 medium turnips or kohlrabi, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes

3 cup pearled barley

2 teaspoons white wine vinegar, more as needed

10 ounces Tuscan kale (1 large bunch or 2 small), ribs removed and leaves sliced 1-inch thick

1. Season brisket with 1 tablespoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper. Let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes to an hour.

2. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add brisket in batches and cook, turning occasionally, until well browned, eight to 10 minutes per batch. Drizzle in additional oil if pan seems dry. Transfer browned meat to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. Add leek, celery and garlic to pan; cook until soft, about seven minutes.

3. Return meat to pot. Pour in 12 cups water, thyme and bay leaves. Bring liquid to a simmer over medium heat. Cook, partly covered, for an hour. Stir in carrots, parsnips, turnips, barley and the remaining ½ tablespoon salt and 1 teaspoon pepper. Simmer until barley is cooked through and meat is tender, 45 minutes to an hour more. Stir in vinegar. Taste and adjust seasonings, if necessary.

4. Just before serving make the kale: heat oven to 450 degrees. Make sure kale is very dry, then toss kale with remaining 1 tablespoon oil and a pinch of salt. Spread it out on one or two baking sheets. It should fit in one layer without crowding. Roast until leaves are crisp in places (some spots will still be soft), five to 10 minutes. Serve kale on top of soup.

Melissa Clark, The New York Times

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