Makes 6 servings: 28-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes, preferably San Marzano type, 6 bone-in chicken thighs, skin on (about 2 1/2 pounds), Kosher...

Makes 6 servings

28-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes, preferably San Marzano type

6 bone-in chicken thighs, skin on (about 2 1/2 pounds)

Kosher salt

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Freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

3 large cloves garlic, minced

1/3 cup dry white wine

1 tablespoon capers, preferably salt packed, rinsed and finely chopped

4 anchovy fillets, finely minced

2 teaspoons dried oregano

2 dozen Nicoise olives, pitted

1 tablespoon minced Italian parsley

1. Drain the tomatoes, discarding tomato purée, if any (or save for another use). Purée the tomatoes in a food processor or blender, or pass through a food mill fitted with the medium disk.

2. Season the chicken on both sides with salt and pepper. Heat the olive oil in a 12-inch skillet over moderately high heat. When the skillet is hot, add the chicken, skin side down. Reduce the heat to moderate. Brown the chicken well, then turn and brown on the other side.

3. With tongs, transfer the chicken to a platter and pour off all but 2 tablespoons fat. Set the skillet aside for a moment to cool, then return to moderately low heat. Add the garlic and sauté, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the puréed tomatoes and wine and bring to a simmer. Cook briskly, stirring, for about 2 minutes to drive off the alcohol and to dislodge any browned bits on the bottom of the skillet. Stir in the capers, anchovies and oregano, crumbling the herb between your fingers as you add it. Adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes.

4. Return the chicken to the skillet, skin side up. Cover and adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook 15 minutes, then turn the chicken, replace the cover, and simmer until tender, about 15 minutes longer or until cooked and the internal temperature of the thigh is 165 degrees on a thermometer.

5. With tongs, transfer the chicken to a serving platter. If the sauce seems too thin, raise the heat and simmer briskly until it thickens to the consistency of a pasta sauce. Stir in the olives, taste for seasoning, and spoon over the chicken. Garnish with minced parsley. Serve immediately.

Note: If you prefer, you can make this dish with fewer chicken thighs, leaving the sauce ingredients the same. Use the extra sauce on spaghetti or penne the next night.

From Janet Fletcher, San Francisco Chronicle