Serves 4 to 6

¾ cup Dijon mustard•

1 clove garlic, minced

1 teaspoon dried thyme

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¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

Salt and black pepper

2 cups fine dry unseasoned breadcrumbs

2 chickens, 2 to 3 pounds each, quartered, rinsed and dried

1 tablespoon sweet paprika, or as needed

3 tablespoons butter, cut into small pieces

1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. In a large mixing bowl, combine mustard, garlic, thyme, cinnamon, a pinch of salt and ½ teaspoon black pepper. Place breadcrumbs in another large bowl.

2. Working in batches, coat chicken quarters on all sides with mustard mixture. Shake off excess mustard, then coat completely with breadcrumbs. Arrange in a single layer in a large, shallow baking pan.

3. Dust the chicken with paprika and scatter butter pieces on top. Bake until crust is deep golden brown and crispy, 2 to 2½ hours. Serve hot or at room temperature.

— Adapted by The New York Times from “Home Cooking” by Laurie Colwin