Pollos a la Brasa San Fernando, with two locations — one in Seattle, the other in Lynnwood — offers a great rotisserie-chicken meal.

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The rotisserie chicken was so tender, the dark meat just fell off the bone when I lifted it off the plate. It’s the signature dish of Pollos a la Brasa San Fernando, a Peruvian chicken joint that opened five months ago on the outskirts of Little Saigon, near I-90.

It’s the Seattle debut for this family-owned restaurant, which already has a small, loyal following at its Lynnwood location.

The menu: Lots of fried beef, chicken and pork, with huge sides of rice and potatoes. Also features some ceviche. But this Peruvian restaurant specializes in rotisserie chicken. A whole chicken ($17), with a mound of fries and side of salad, is the best deal. Appetizers and soups range from $5 to $7.50. Most entrees are in the $9-$10 range.

What to write home about: That rotisserie chicken, skin crispy and mildly sweet with its secret spice rub (has hints of cilantro and jalapeño). Dip the white meat into its signature creamy cilantro sauce. Also popular, Lomo Saltado ($10), an Asian- inspired stir fry with strips of sirloin sautéed with wedges of tomatoes, onions and potatoes. Let that smoky beef gravy soak into the white rice.

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The moist pork tamale ($5), filled with a boiled egg, salty olives and pork, cuts nicely with the creamy cilantro sauce and pickled onions.

What to skip: Agi de Gallina ($9), a starchy entree of boiled potatoes and rice and not enough cheese or shredded chicken.

The setting: More of a hole-in-the-wall ambience, with hanging posters of Machu Picchu and other tourist sites with a burgundy backdrop. Service is erratic. Slow on one night but attentive and efficient on another.

Summing up: An appetizer, three entrees including a chicken with sides, a Peruvian drink punch and soda, including tax, totaled $48.45, enough food to feed five.

It’s one of the more impressive bargain dining deals to debut in Seattle this year. Menu is eclectic enough to draw families and couples looking for a different ethnic dining experience.

Tan Vinh: 206-515-5656 or tvinh@seattletimes.com

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