The family-friendly Phinney Market Pub & Eatery offers moderate-priced comfort cuisine.

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Scouting for a truly family-friendly neighborhood pub with fine grub at a moderate price?

Phinney Ridge has just the place, in the new Phinney Market Pub & Eatery. In a snazzy but unfussy one-room storefront that previously housed some upscale food markets, this welcoming cafe is brightly lit, with a plank-style communal table and a few smaller tables, and a gleaming copper-tin ceiling.

The opening dinner and lunch menus are compact, stressing conscious comfort cuisine designed by chef Mercia Sheets (formerly of Madeleine’s Café & Patisserie in Spokane) that’s tasty and well-executed.

On a recent evening, the place was hopping with a clientele that included many parents with small children. A caveat: If you crave peace and quiet, you probably won’t find it here. The tots can be loud, but the hard floor and other surfaces are also culprits.

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Still, if you don’t mind the lively acoustics, this is an enjoyable spot.

The menu: Mostly American classics, with fresh, often local-grown ingredients prepared with flair.

There are a few starters (e.g., a tomato bisque soup, a prawn salad); some excellent sandwiches (a Reuben, a nutty curried egg-salad on wheat); several entrees (zesty flatiron steak; underspiced but still delish seared scallops with crisp green beans and smashed potatoes); and a few brought-in desserts. The bar menu has several other items, and there’s a discounted kids menu.

What to write home about: The hamburgers are superb: moderate-sized, beautifully seasoned patties topped with bleu or cheddar cheese, fresh greens and a savory honey-mayo sauce. The crispy, pencil-thin fries are a hit with all ages. A melt-in-your-mouth savory veggie tart, a delicate sort of pizza with zucchini, grape tomatoes, marinara, mozzarella and fresh basil on hot, flaky pastry, with a side of mixed greens in a tangy vinaigrette, is also a winner.

The setting: A big, inviting, rather loud room with a small bar. The friendly servers aim to please.

Summing up: A savory veggie tart ($8); a cheeseburger with fries ($12); a curried egg-salad sandwich with tomato soup ($9); and a scallop entree ($20) came to $49 before tax and tip, and served three people.

Misha Berson:

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