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Despite being a James Beard-nominated chef, Brendan McGill of Bainbridge Island hasn’t made a big splash on the mainland, opting for some modest projects in cheap real estate — first he helped open the beer-and-brats joint Altstadt in Pioneer Square and now Hitchcock Deli in Georgetown, the latter an offshoot of his popular spot on the island.

But his Seattle deli adheres to the same locally sourced ingredient mantra that helped put his acclaimed Hitchcock restaurant on the culinary map. The meats, cured and smoked in the kitchen, come from local farms. Other than the bread and cheese, everything else from condiments to preserves are made in-house.

The menu: It’s your typical deli-lunch lineup of soups, salads ($5-$10) and sandwiches ($5-$10). A sandwich order comes with chips. The best deal is that you can buy one of the deli’s wine bottles ($11-$24) and drink on the premises, a much better deal than the wine by the glass.

What to write home about: The BLT ($8.50), made with McGill’s signature applewood-smoked bacon, a nice sweet-and-smoky cut of pork belly with a dab of aioli on potato roll. The “OG roast beef” ($9.50) with caramelized onions and Swiss cheese is better if you request it “pile high” (a half pound of meat for $2.50 extra) or “New York style” (a pound for $7.50 more.)

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Not that the bar is set high in Seattle, but the pastrami sandwich ($9.50) here is one of the area’s better variations.

What to skip: The banh mi ($8) with pâté and turkey lacks the balance you get from the best Vietnamese sandwiches. Skip the flimsy merguez sausage.

The setting: Typical sterile, spartan butcher-shop deli set up with a huge kitchen in the back. The best seats are the picnic tables out front, facing the busy Georgetown corner, where artists and locals lounge around, drinking coffee or smoking. Service tends to be slow even when there isn’t a crowd.

Summing up: Four sandwiches, a small white-bean-and-tuna plate ($5) and a Pellegrino soda ($2) totaled $47.23.

Tan Vinh: 206-515-5656 or On Twitter @tanvinhseattle

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