Thierry Rautureau's Luc offers a late-night happy hour, complete with Rainier beer for $1.

HAPPY HOUR |

Thierry Rautureau’s cuisine is synonymous with fine dining in Seattle. But in his new brasserie, Luc, the “Chef in the Hat” aims for the casual and middlebrow, even offering a late-night happy hour.

There is trendy liqueur Fernet behind the bar and $1 Rainier beer specials, a sign that he wants to draw the young hipster set and the after-work crowd of bartenders and cooks.

Happy hour features a $4 bar menu, noshes that are deceptively more filling than they appear on the small plates, the best being the addictive potato souffle crisps — puffy, fried potato sticks with harrisa aioli.

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The creamy smoked-salmon tartine, salty from the capers, peppery from the arugula, is another nice late-night addition. A smaller portion of the thick and fat lamb sausage entree is available on the happy-hour menu, too.

The sirloin skewers, though, were badly overcooked. And the creamy deviled-egg topping didn’t make that tough beef go down any easier.

As bar snacking goes, Luc’s is better than a lot of the late-night hangouts if you get the munchies. There is a good booze selection, too.

But Luc doesn’t yet draw a young crowd. It’s attracting a Rover’s-like set, mostly in the 40-and-up bracket sipping wine by the glass, not downing Fernet shots and Rainier to end the night.

Luc, 2800 E. Madison St., offers happy hour from 10 p.m.-midnight Sundays-Thursdays with $4 small plates, $1 Rainier beer and $4 beer and wine (206-328-6645 or thechefinthehat.com/luc).

Tan Vinh: 206-515-5656 or tvinh@seattletimes.com