Patrons have called Evviva Woodfired Pizza the best pizza in Seattle, which is quite the feat for a restaurant in Edmonds. But, one slice in, it’s no surprise that Evviva’s reputation for Neapolitan-style pizza has far outgrown its small berth up north.

The dough is allowed to rise four to seven days — “it’s best right before it expires,” owner Luan Berisha says — then stretched by hand and cooked in a wood-burning oven fueled by apple wood from Yakima. Somewhere between one to two minutes, the pizza is done.

What comes out is a fluffy, elastic crust with an underbelly lightly charred from the hot oven floor. You’ll devour the slice well before the next pie is out of the oven.

The menu: Traditionalists should be happily sated by the Margherita pizza (small, $11.50; large, $21), made with San Marzano tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella and basil leaves. Those wanting some heft in their toppings might opt for the spicy Carne Trio ($14/$23), with prosciutto and Calabrese and chicken sausages, or the potato pie ($13/$22), loaded with Yukon Gold potatoes and pancetta. The adventurous should seek out the Blueberry Goat Cheese ($13/$22) or the Gyro pizza ($14/$23), dotted with beef-and-lamb meatballs, olives and homemade tzatziki sauce.

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Don’t overlook the salads, like the Evviva house version ($8/$14), made of lightly dressed butter lettuce, cherry tomatoes, cilantro and a dollop of crème fraîche.

Drinks on tap include local beers and a nonalcoholic root beer from Lynnwood.

What to write home about: Arugula softly wilting atop 24-month-aged prosciutto will make you swoon for the prosciutto pie ($14/$23). Customer favorites are often the seasonal pies, currently a smoked-salmon pizza, with fresh fig and prosciutto arriving for summer, and a chanterelle pizza in late fall.

The setting: A hole-in-the-mall pizzeria across the street from the Edmonds ferry pay station. Inside, you’ll find two family-style tables stretching the length of the restaurant.

Summing up: A house salad ($14), Eva pizza ($23), and prosciutto pizza ($23) came to $60 before tax and tip, and fed five.

Katrina Barlow: 206-464-3251 or kbarlow@seattletimes.com