Sandwiches both traditional and inventive are signatures at Delicatus in Pioneer Square.

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The owners of Delicatus are like kids in a candy store, stacking generous portions of bacon and deli meats on their sandwiches. Their mantra also seems to be: “There’s no protein you can’t turn into a good sandwich.”

Owners Derek Shankland and Mike Klotz opened this Pioneer Square joint almost two years ago, with the goal of bringing a traditional deli to the city. But they seem to have more fun putting their spins on the classics. This fall, the guys will also start a monthly guest-chef dinner, with food-and-wine pairings.

The menu: Sandwiches are split into two categories: traditional (such as roast beef and BLTs) or originals. The latter are homages to the classics such as their take on a Cuban sandwich and banh mi. Sandwiches range from $8-$9 and come with kettle chips. Substitute coleslaw or potato salad for 90 cents, a house or Caesar salad for $2, or soup or oyster chowder for $2.50.

What to write home about: Its signature Shank Lamb sandwich ($9), with strands and pieces of gamy braised leg of lamb and some heat, served on toasted bread. It tastes best when doused with a generous amount of chive aioli. In the Seattle Cure ($8.75), cured albacore and salmon on a toasted panino roll, the layers of sweet peppers and lemon-caper aioli balance nicely with the salty fish. For those less adventurous, there’s roast beef with sautéed onions, horseradish aioli, lots of melted provolone and au jus to dip.

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What to skip: Their take on the banh mi (Fist of Fury, $8.50) with pulled pork and a colorful display of carrots, peppers, cucumbers, cabbage and tobiko caviar. It was dry and overworked, and it needed mayo.

The setting: High ceiling, exposed brick wall and open kitchen with counter seats. It used to be a warehouse space. There are also tables in the back, a bar, as well as an upstairs dining area. Space is much bigger than this deli needs it to be.

Summing up: Four sandwiches including tax totaled $37.78. Serves four. Most traditional sandwiches are served on loaf bread while most of the deli’s originals are served on rolls.

Tan Vinh: 206-515-5656 or

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