Pizza is in the name at the New York Pizza & Bar in Lower Queen Anne, and there is lots of pizza on the menu, but the fries flow freely if you order one of their burgers.

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For a place named New York Pizza & Bar, it sure shows a lot of affection to the burger.

The humble burger gets souped up in every conceivable way: with a fried egg and bacon, with guacamole and bacon. And the half-pound burger comes with all the fries you can eat. You read that right.

On a recent Sunday, the waitresses scurried from kitchen to the bar repeatedly, plopping down one bowl of fries after another. It would be like that for hours. It’s gimmicky, yes. But how does it taste? Pretty good. The burger — smoky, pink in center — was juicy.

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The copious fries, coated in oregano, were crispy.

Ten burger variations are offered. I had a burger that tasted like it was caramelized — done with a Balsamic glaze, topped with sauteed red peppers, mushrooms, onions and provolone cheese, along with the usual fixings of lettuce and tomato.

New York Pizza & Bar feels like a hotel bar that tries to be a little of everything. It looks like a sports bar with games shown on the five flat screens. It also looks like a Belltown nightclub with its neon orange bar and drink specials — Jell-O shots and Long Island Iced Tea.

Happy hour features the usual: sliders, tacos, calamari. Avoid the blasphemy that are the “boneless wings” — dry, white-meat nuggets. Better: the pepperoni pizza. It’s cheesy and gooey, with a crust glistening from a brush of garlic-infused olive oil, a nice, chewy bite, not too doughy.

The burger served with unlimited fries is a better deal than the happy-hour food. It usually costs about $12, and anytime on Sundays, you can get the gourmet burgers and limitless fries for $9.

New York Pizza & Bar, 500 Mercer St., offers happy hour daily from 2-6 p.m. and again 9 to closing with bar food from $3.99-$6.99 and $1 off on beer and wine, $5 off on all wine bottles and $3.99-$5.99 cocktail specials (206-913-2565).

Tan Vinh: 206-515-5656 or On Twitter @tanvinhseattle.

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