This seasonal recipe is from Mario Batali.

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Though they freeze better than most vegetables, peas are at their best during spring, pulled straight from the pod. At this time of year in my restaurants, shelling peas is almost a full-time job.

Favas have been around for longer than any other bean we know of today. And like many now-revered Italian ingredients, the fava bean was used in peasant cooking for centuries.

Recipes for fava or broad beans have appeared in every canonical Italian cookbook, and the preparations are diverse: in pod and without, puréed and sauteed.

Fresh, young fava beans are especially delicious served raw from their pods, with a sharp young cheese. My executive chef at Babbo, Frank Langello, is preparing a delicious salad of fava with mint and Kinderhook Pecorino, from a small farm in Massachusetts. It is a combination true to the flavors of the ingredients and true to the season.

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The key is not to mess with the natural freshness of the pea. In this recipe, I saute the peas and beans lightly with olive oil and onions; then I combine them with new potatoes and season with fresh herbs.

Peas are one of the best crops for a home garden. The vines can also be eaten and the tips steamed or sauteed. Some peas are grown to be eaten fresh, like English peas or piselli novelli. Others are grown specifically to be dried.

Fresh peas have a crunch and crisp, bright flavor heightened only by the physical act of removing the pod from the ground.

James Beard Award-winner Mario Batali, a Seattle native, is a chef, restaurateur, author and TV personality. His latest book is “Molto Batali.”

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