The emphasis is on burgers done right with a decadent twist at 8 oz. Burger Bar on Capitol Hill.

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It seems a little odd that an upscale burger joint with locations only in Los Angeles International Airport, Miami and a couple of casinos would set up shop in decidedly un-glitzy Seattle, but that’s just where 8 oz. Burger Bar, the brainchild of star L.A. chef Govind Armstrong, has landed.

The burgers are grilled over live Texas oak, giving them a distinctive smokiness. But what makes this restaurant even more special are the stylish surroundings and an attention to detail.

Owned by Seattle chef Kevin Chung, who also helms the kitchen, this is a place for connoisseurs.

The menu: The emphasis here is on burgers done right and with a decadent twist, from The 8 oz. burger topped with bacon, truffle aioli and balsamic onions ($14) to the Wagyu burger with wasabi herb sauce ($13). The menu is stacked with equally sinful snacks, sides and treats, like deviled eggs with smoked salmon ($5) and short-rib poutine ($9).

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Armstrong’s famous short-rib grilled-cheese sandwich ($9), one of Oprah’s “favorite things,” is a house specialty.

What to write home about: The wild-boar burger with pickled onions, bacon, poblano relish and garlic aioli ($12) was just as funky, juicy and deeply flavored as the description implies. One of the best burgers I’ve ever tasted. My dining partner’s veggie burger with pickled tomato and avocado ($10) was beefy in taste and texture, with a hint of spiciness.

What to skip: It’s easy to go into fried-food overload here. If you’re interested in ordering fries as an appetizer, it’s probably better to have that as an accompaniment to the actual entree. After the tasty truffled potato-skin appetizer we shared ($7), for instance, I felt too full to enjoy the crispy, thin-cut, IPA-battered onion rings ($4) I picked to go with my burger.

The setting: Dimly lit and sharply designed with reclaimed Wisconsin barnwood, metal and vintage curios, 8 oz. is a bit a of a mashup, fusing hip bistro with rustic sports bar.

Summing up: Customers can build their own burgers with an impressive selection of meats and toppings, almost all made from local ingredients. With addictive spicy chickpeas ($4) and truffled potato skins for starters, and the wild-boar burger, veggie burger, onion rings and garlic fries ($4) for our mains, the tab came to $41 plus tax and tip.

Tyrone Beason is a Pacific Northwest magazine staff writer.

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