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Fresh berries for a summer buckle in New York, July 14, 2015. The dessert’s name comes from the way the buttery buckle batter collapses slightly into the fruit beneath as it bakes, the surface cracking and browning while the sugar you’ve sprinkled on top melts to a crunchy crust. (Andrew Scrivani/The New York Times)

Buckle up with summer fruit

Buttery buckle batter collapses slightly into the fruit beneath it as it bakes. Its surface cracks unevenly and browns marvelously, while any sugar that you’ve...